Via Francigena - Lucca to Rome
Tuscany, Italy, March 2024
The via Francigena is the longest Pilgrimage route in Europe and consists of almost 1240miles/2,000km from Canterbury, England, then running through France, and Switzerland to Rome, and the Vatican City taking about 90 days. The itinerary has its historical basis in the diary of the Archbishop of Canterbury Sigeric the serious in 990, written on the occasion of his journey to Rome to receive the pallium, that would have consecrated him as Archbishop of Canterbury.
We decided to follow the most popular section of the walk from Lucca to Rome, walking 270 miles, taking 19 days with 31,000 feet of elevation. We carried our own bags. We had booked all accommodation a couple of months in advance on Bookings.com. We had not visited Tuscany or Rome before, so we were really looking forward to it.
We caught an EasyJet flight booked a few months in advance from our home in Manchester at 6.30am to Pisa. After arriving we went to the railway ticket office at the airport to purchase our train tickets to Lucca. English was spoken, the tickets cost €12 each, and included the shuttle train to Pisa, then onwards to Lucca. We had 1.5 hours between the connection, so we explored Pisa, before catching the train to Lucca. The train ticket has to be validated at a machine on the platform before boarding the train. In Lucca there is a tourist information shop near the station.
We checked into our accommodation of Affittacamere del Centro- with a very kind owner, who gave us a map of Lucca and showed us the best places to go.
We walked round Lucca, buying our Pilgrims Credentials for the trip at the Cathedral Museum, €8 each. With the credential we then we got half price entry of €5 instead of €10 to the Museum, Cathedral Bell Tower with 271 steps and a great view, and the church of St Martins.
Unfortunately, we were too late for the recommended Guinigi Tower with 7 trees on the top. We walked through the San Francesco Plaza to the Via Francigena Museum which is set in the 15th century wall at Bastion San Salvator. Upstairs, there are very interesting video displays about the walk and free entry. Apparently, credentials are sold here too. We then walked along the wall, before turning left at Porta Santa Maria to Piazza Anfiteatro, which is superb and well worth visiting.
We had loved our short day in Lucca, everyone we met was very friendly and handily spoke English. We had a very pleasant meal at Ristorante La Cranceria, with a very friendly English-speaking waiter.
Internet
Booking.com Affittacamere del centro. Lovely room https://www.fortezzadiradicofani.it/eng/index.html Cathedral visit https://www.visittuscany.com/en/attractions/via-francigena-entry-point-in-lucca/ Museum of Via Francigena walk
We used Cicerone Book, Via Francigena Part 3 Lucca to Rome, by Sandy Brown.
There is an App Via Francigena- which has the routes, and information on it. But we didn’t use this much. We found it better just to walk.
Information
Lucca is a lovely place to visit, there is plenty to do for a whole day. The circular square of Piazza Anfiteatro would be fabulous to sit in during the summer.
We were looking forward to our walk, we had seen no pilgrims or signs, and we had a feeling that it would be a quiet trip.
Via Francigena Day 1 - Lucca to Altopascio
Today we were starting our walk consisting of 260 miles from Lucca to Rome, along the via Francigena. We had booked all the accommodation a few months in advance. We were looking forward to visiting Tuscany with the highlights of San Gimignano, Monteriggioni, and Siena, before arriving at the Vatican in Rome.
In Lucca the walk starts by the church on Piazza san Michele, then down Via Roma, and Via Cruz. We had checked it out the previous day and saw no signs. We were glad to have the guide book, and we had bought the credentials needed the previous day at the Cathedral Museum for €8 each. We left the Piazza at 8.45am and walked Via Roma, stopping at Cafe la Colonna, for a coffee and sandwich. We left the cafe at 9.15am and headed out of Lucca and were happy to find some little red and white signs through the large gateway. We reached the outskirts of Lucca at 9.50am having walked along the pavement at the side of a busy road (but nothing compared to what was to come!). We turned right at a shrine, down a quiet road arriving at the beautiful St Michele Church at 10.15am, with a pretty cemetery.
Just before Capannori there are information boards about the walk, then outside the archaeology museum is a large sign saying get your stamp here, so we called in. We went to Cafe Pracchi in Capannori at 11.15am, before continuing along tracks through the countryside.
On arrival in Porcari there is a steep hill with a church on the top, however it was closed but there is a great view of the town and mountains. We called into supermarket In’s, just off the main road, then ate our lunch on a bench. Crossing a busy road, then turning right at Pam store, we passed a church now being used as a Pilgrims hostel, but currently closed.
We arrived in Altopascio at 3pm, and had a nice walk round various piazzas. We checked into our accommodation of Camera San Jacoba at 4pm, conveniently located on the route in the middle of town.
Later we had a delicious dinner at Trattoria Dell’orologio, which opens at 6.30pm, unlike the other restaurants, which opened at 7.30pm.
We were happy with our first day on the Via Francigena. As it is a relatively short walking day of 12 miles, we had taken our time. There was some road walking, but we have had a lot worse. It was a flat walk, with some pretty towns and churches, but some industrial areas too. The views to the mountains made it worthwhile. For a March day it had been lovely and sunny at 15°. There are thin red and white signs round lampposts to follow, not as obvious as the large yellow arrows found on a Camino. Occasionally there are large brown signs, and small posts with V.F. on them. Be careful to follow the signs for a walk, as the signed cycle path sometimes takes a different route.
Distance 13 miles (21km)
Duration of Walk 6 Hours 20 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 330 feet (101m)
Pace 29 min a mile
Websites used
https://www.facebook.com/trattoriadellorologio/ Restaurant
www.bookings.com Camera San Jacoba
Via Francigena Day 2 - Altopascio to San Miniato
Today is a relatively long day of 18 miles with 537m of ascent, much of it towards the end of the day. To shorten the day maybe a bus could be taken from Ponte a Cappiano to San Miniato. The walks highlights are: - following an ancient cobbled path through beautiful woods, the amazing bridge at Ponte a Cappiano, following the canal through countryside with far-reaching views, and finally seeing San Miniato at the top of a hill.
We left our room at Dimora Sotto La Rocca at 7.45am, leaving Altopascio, then walking alongside a busy main road. We stopped at the amazing large, modern, La Citadella café, which is situated by a large roundabout. There is an incredible assortment of cakes, sandwiches etc, English was spoken too. Leaving at 8.30am, we walked alongside a quieter road (right at the roundabout), then left through glorious countryside. Following the path, we followed the ancient cobbled path, with a bridge over a stream, before leaving the woodlands to emerge into Galleno. To the right is a general store, we called in, bought some fruit, and collected a stamp from the very friendly staff (5 miles, 2 hours 20 mins, 91m ascent). Leaving at 10am, we walked through further pretty woods, and had far-reaching views.
Arriving at Ponte a Cappiano we crossed the bridge and ate lunch at café Arci Le Calle (9.4 miles, 4.5 hours, 190m ascent). The bridge spanning the Usciana Canal is beautiful with 4 arches, it used to have a system of locks, various mills, and forges, and dates from the 16th century. Part of the buildings of the bridge have been converted into a Pilgrim Hostel-which would have been a fascinating place to stay. Partway across the bridge, the path descends, then follows the dyke wall of the canal. After one mile, just when you think you are heading in the wrong direction, there is a path to the right. We then followed a bridge over another canal, passing through re-claimed marshes.
To avoid stretches of road walking, the path takes a circuitous journey, but at least it is flat. After crossing the SP11 road, there are 72 steps, leading into the pretty town of Fucecchio, (2pm, 12.5 miles, 246m) with lovely churches and views. Later we crossed over the River Arno- which flows 241km from the Apennines, through Florence to the Tyrrhenian Sea near Pisa.
We stopped in Bason Café in San Miniato Basso (4pm,17 miles, 270m ascent). Just after we left the café it began to pour with rain, but it was too late to stop to take shelter. A new zig-zag path has been built up the steep slope to San Miniato Alto. At the top of the path is a lift that could be taken to reach the town walls, but we took the stairs instead. There is a nice viewing area at the top, with fabulous views out over the countryside.
We went for a delicious dinner at a very friendly restaurant of Le Due Torri, calling into the small shop opposite to buy some food for the next day.
Distance 18.5 miles (29.5 km)
Duration of Walk 8 Hours 50 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1245 feet (380m)
Via Francigena Day3 - San Miniato to Gambassi Terme
This is a beautiful day’s walking of 16 miles, with rolling Tuscan countryside and cypress trees. There is no food or water all day, except maybe after 2 miles, so the previous night we had visited a small shop to buy some fruit and bread. We left our accommodation of Dimora Sotto La Rocca at 7.45am, and after walking through the town we stopped at Cafe Bonaparte for breakfast. After a delicious tuna and tomato toastie, we left at 8.20am. We were soon in the countryside with great views back to San Miniato. We passed Calenzano cafe at 8.55am (2 miles 93m ascent,) tempting but we did not go in. Continuing, there is a useful first aid kit in a box at the top of the hill outside some flats. We turned right at Via Elsa, and sat at a picnic bench, with views for a great distance.
After a couple of miles along the track, on the right-hand side is a first aid box, a bench and a plaque. There is also a red pot containing a pilgrim log book, to write your name in. Don't miss this, we were there on 9th of March 2024. It is lovely to see previous entries in the book, we counted only 12 people had written in it since January 1st. 2024. A bit later, there is a large 20 years road to Rome wooden sign celebrating the re-birth of the Via Francigena. This is a great photo stop with views back to San Miniato.
We turned right by a farmhouse at a sign saying Roma 343 km, Siena 74km (11.30am, 8 miles, 295m elevation). Coming into the hamlet of Coiano, we diverted left to see the sadly derelict enormous church. Behind the old church are picnic benches, water and great views. Leaving at 12.10pm we walked back past the disused church then down a track by a closed vineyard. After 20 minutes we came to a lovely bench under a tree with a plaque labelled with the years 1506 to 2006, and information about 150 Swiss soldiers who rested here on their way to Rome. We reached the road SP46 at 1.30pm, 11 miles, 380m ascent.
Crossing the road then passing an agricultural hotel (closed for the winter), (13 miles 448m elevation, and 6 hours 45 minutes), we took more muddy tracks, and could see rain clouds gathering on the horizon. We hoped that we could cover the last 5 km to Gambassi Terme before the rain came in. But unfortunately, the heavy rain arrived, and we got very wet as we hurried along the side of the main road with our umbrellas up.
We arrived at our accommodation of Casa 11 Castello at 4pm (8.5 hours, 16 miles). It was a lovely, authentic Italian apartment within the old town, with cooking facilities. To take advantage of this for a change we went to Carrefour supermarket, and bought food to cook for dinner.
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Gambassi Terme has a very interesting old town, with narrow streets, old buildings and views from the park over the countryside.
Distance 16.4 miles (26km)
Duration of Walk 8 Hours 30 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 2315 feet (706m)
Pace 31 min a mile
Websites used www.bookings.com Casa 11 Castello
Via Francigena Day 4 - Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano
This is shorter days walk of 9 miles, through more beautiful countryside. This gives time to spend the whole afternoon exploring the fabulous historic town of San Gimignano-one of the best places we visited. A whole day could be spent here, as there is so much to see. On the way to San Gimignano there are numerous wineries which could be visited when open in the summer months-apparently these get very busy-so book early!
We left later than we wanted to, finding it harder to pack in a large apartment. Also, all our kit was still drying from the previous day’s heavy rain. We walked down through the old town to Piazza Roma for breakfast, going to Bar Central which was busy, selling bread, cakes, and foodstuffs etc.
Be careful when leaving Gambassi as the signs actually send you round in a circle! We left at 8.30am, retracing our route into town, then turning right down the SP64 road. At a hairpin curve we went right, along muddy tracks, over a bridge, passing vines and vineyards. It was a shame they were all shut when we were there.
We continued down more tracks through the beautiful Tuscan countryside before arriving in the village of Pancole. Unfortunately, the hotel there recommended for coffee and cake was closed-shame as it was now pouring in rain. Just through the village at the side of an ancient monastery is a beautiful grotto with the nativity scene. Make sure you take time to stop here, walk down the steps, and enter the tunnel of the sanctuary. Absolutely incredible.
Continuing, then turning right off the main road. We followed a track up a steep hill, passed through a farm and then arrived at a beautiful monastery with a gift shop. Unfortunately, shut because its Sunday and people were in the Church. We were by this point extremely wet because it was absolutely pouring in rain. We followed the side of the SP69 towards San Gimignano, we sheltered in a bus shelter whilst we contacted our hotel to see if we could arrive early. Fortunately, the answer was yes.!!
On arrival in San Gimignano the streets were deserted due to the torrents of rain pouring down the streets. We arrived at our room of Palazzo Mari at 1pm, the owner was so lovely letting us in early, then taking time to give us a map, and directions for the best places to visit. The room is located like many that we stayed in on the trip, within the city walls, and located in a 13th Century building-amazing.
San Gimignano is a UNESCO world heritage site, made up of medieval architecture, 15 towers (there were once 72), with many churches and museums to visit. We were so lucky that the rain cleared and the sun shone. We bought a €13 ticket each which covers entry into the Cathedral, some museums, churches and Torre Grossa Tower. This is the tallest tower built in the14th century, with superb views. We also visited a small shop with a fabulous model of the town, found near to the ruins of the castle. This shop also had some souvenirs of the walk, we didn’t buy any, thinking we would get some in Rome-but unfortunately, we didn’t see any there. There are so many shops selling the local wines and cheeses.
We went to Bar Magnino for dinner, not many restaurants were open as it was so quiet.
Distance 9 miles (14.5km)
Duration of Walk 4 Hours 30 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1473 feet (449m)
Pace 30 min a mile
Websites www.bookings.com Palazzo Mari
https://magnino.eu/en/ Dinner
Information
On the right-hand side of the road into town, before the walls is a laundrette that we used. Washing powder is provided. We took change for the machines.
Take headphones to listen to the audio tour of the Cathedral.
Maybe book the cathedral ahead in the busy summer months.
Via Francigena Day 5 - San Gimignano to Monteriggioni
This is another long day’s walk of 19 miles. There are cafes to eat at along the way. But we had planned ahead, realising that on the following stage from Monteriggioni to Siena, there is no food or shops. We called into the Coop shop on the edge of town to buy food for the following day.
Leaving at 7.40am we walked through the very quiet town, and went to Bar Firenze, for a tuna and tomato focaccia. Then we visited the Coop shop, leaving at 8.40am. There was the most magnificent cloud inversion in the valley.
After ten minutes (8.50am) we stopped at a bench with views back to San Gimignano, the towers looking resplendent against the blue sky. Going along the main road, then (9.10am) across the zebra crossing down a path. We came across the first of 2 flooded rivers, and removed our boots, and rolled up our trousers to wade through the very cold water (more later) (10.45am, 5 miles, 186m ascent, 3 hours).
The path splits (5.7 miles, 11.15am) to the right is the original route via Quartaia, which is longer, with few services. We went left, up the newer path towards Colle di Val D’Elsa, along a sometimes-cobbled path, along a road, passing houses. At 12.15pm we turned right through the medieval gateway into Colle di Val D’Elsa, (8.5 miles, 331m ascent, 4.5 hours). We visited the Cathedral, and emerged to torrential rain. We tried unsuccessfully to shelter, but walked through the town, down some very slippery steps with a useful handrail. We were lucky to find Cafe Garibaldi open, for more coffee and focaccia. Unfortunately, we left very wet footprints on their clean floor. (1.20pm, 9.5 miles, 340m ascent ,5 hours 45mins). Given the very wet weather we avoided the riverside walk with small waterfalls, and followed the road out of town again. Going on a bridge over the roaring river, we were very happy with our chosen route.
At 3pm we re-joined the variant, and continued along the now very wet, muddy paths. At 4pm we went to café Casalta in Strove, having coffee and cake, there is also an unexpected shop in the back of the bar (14 miles, 520m, 8 hours 15 min).
At 5pm we arrived at the open Abbey D’Isola dating from 1173, complete with museum and Pilgrim accommodation, (16 miles, 561m ascent). Nearby there is a map of the trip, a free toilet and a sign Roma 300km.
By now it seemed like a long endless day, the quick way would have been along the very busy main road, but we followed the meandering path across the fields, until we arrived at a tabac shop, 2 restaurants and a zebra crossing. (18.3 miles, 583m, 10 hours). We were very happy to see Monteriggioni was now near, just 60m ascent and half a mile to go. We followed the steep path, going through the old gateway.
Monteriggioni is such a beautiful old village, all set within the town walls-unfortunately, shut when we arrived. Our room at Casmere Dentro 11Castello was just amazing, again with beautiful, ancient furniture. We ate dinner at Ristorante da Remo, delicious food, great service, beautifully decorated, with a big roaring fire. It quickly filled up-so maybe book in advance.
Distance 18.9 miles (30.5km)
Duration of Walk 10 Hours 25 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 2140 feet (653m)
Pace 33 min a mile
Websites used
https://restaurantguru.com/Casalta-Strove www.bookings.com Casmere Dentro 11Castello
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g227886-d1444088-Reviews-Ristorante_Da_Remo-Monteriggioni_Tuscany.html Restaurant Ristorante da Remo
Information
As it is a long day, with a steep hill at the end, an alternative day could be to stay in Strove. The distance from San Gimignano to Hotel Borgo San Luigi, Strove, (which is signposted) was 13 miles, 7 hours 20 minutes, 466m ascent. Then walk from Strove to Siena the following day.
The day took us longer than we thought, partially due to having to ford 2 rivers-which takes time to assess the situation, remove boots, roll up trousers, put passport and phones in secure plastic bags in case we fell in, etc. In the guidebook, we had read that the rivers may flood in winter, so we had taken a small travel towel, and in advance looked for an alternative route-but there was not one. We could not really work out why on such a popular, well-signposted walk there weren’t any bridges. But it all adds to the adventure. I am sure later in the year, it would be possible to use the stepping stones to cross on. Some walkers the following day, only had to wade through one river. We used our walking sticks to aid us, the current was fast flowing, the water was very cold and the river bed was very stony and slippery.
There is not much accommodation in Monteriggioni, we were very lucky to find a room.
Most of the restaurants were shut (in March), there is no shop. Everywhere was shut for breakfast.
We planned ahead, realising that on the following days stage from Monteriggioni to Siena, there is no food or shops. We called into the Coop on the edge of San Gimignano to buy food for the following day.
If we had not had all the accommodation booked, we might have stayed in Colle di Val D’Elsa, given that we were so wet, and it was such a pretty town.
One thing we did realise after a few days was of walking that the small medieval towns have shops and cafes on the outskirts, not in the centre. So don’t go past thinking there will be another one round the corner.
Via Francigena Day 6 -Monteriggioni to Siena
This is a walk of 13 miles, through the countryside with nowhere to buy food or water, but there may be water taps along the way. We had planned ahead buying food in the Coop supermarket on the edge of San Gimignano the previous day.
We left at 7.40am with nowhere open for breakfast, going through the gate in the direction of Siena and Rome. There is a free toilet in the car park. It was a foggy morning with birds singing, and we were glad we had looked at the view the previous evening. We walked downhill, passing a school, crossing the road, then going uphill through woodlands. At 9.30am (4 miles 2 hours 180m) we came to a lovely rest area with water, a stamp, benches etc. A very kind gesture. There is also a number to phone for coffee!!
We continued to a road (5.3 miles, 188m, 2 hours 45 mins), walked along more track, then stopped at a picnic bench with a water tap (7.3 miles, 228m, 3 hours 45mins).
We arrived at an obelisk (4 hours 15 mins), which was built in 1766 to mark the drainage of the marshy area through a system of tunnels, to try to prevent malaria. There is a hand-built tunnel of 2m in diameter running 2.2km, to where it joins the Torrents Rigo. The ‘Granduca Canale’ destroyed the wetland habitat, but created wide flat farmland that we walked through.
We went under the motorway at 1.15pm (10 miles, 356 ascent, 5.5 hours at the Siena sign), then along roads, through the Siena walls (12.3 miles, 448m ascent, 6 hours 15 mins). The final stretch of the walk does seem to take a while, maybe because unlike the previous places visited, you do not actually see the town before arrival. Also, due to the previous rain, the paths were muddy, and it took time to divert off the path.
We happily arrived at our hotel Alma Domus, at 2.30pm, in time for a look round Siena.
For a change we went for Chinese food, Restaurant Shanghai, near the cathedral in a cave, with nice food.
Distance 13.65 miles (22km)
Duration of Walk 6 Hours 45 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1528 feet (466m)
Pace 29 min a mile
Websites www.bookings.com Hotel Alma Domus- amazing location, with a view to the Cathedral from the balcony in our room. Lovely buffet breakfast too.
https://www.ristorantecineseshanghai.com/ Dinner
Information
We normally carry cans of tuna, cereal bars, packets of nuts, and maybe some bread-just in case. On this day it was imperative to have planned food in advance, especially as by leaving at 8am, no cafes in Monteriggioni were open for breakfast.
We had booked tickets online in advance for the very beautiful Cathedral, collecting a stamp at the ticket office too. Our tickets didn’t cover all the sites though, apparently on arrival they could have been updated. Again, bring headphones for the audio guide of the Cathedral. We walked another 3 miles around Siena, visiting the Piazza del Campo, with another fabulous tower viewpoint, and a few piazzas. It is the largest medieval town we had visited so far.
Siena is such a fascinating place, that 2 nights could be spent here.
Via Francigena Day 7 - Siena to Buonconvento
We sadly said goodbye to Siena, knowing that we had maybe rushed our time here-the disadvantage of a schedule. But the appeal of more Tuscan countryside made up for it. In the book this stage ends at Ponte d'Arbia (16 miles), but there is not much to see there, partially due to war-time bombing. A further 4 miles away is the stunning medieval town of Buonconvento, so we had booked to stay there, and as it turned out a great decision.
We were up at 7am, and ate a delicious buffet breakfast in our hotel Alma Domus at 7.30am, before leaving at 8am. We wandered back to the main square, and then down the narrow streets, through the Roman Gate, (but not actually Roman) to the countryside. After 3 miles, (100m ascent, 1 hours 15mins), we sat on a bench under a tree, with views back to Siena. The walk from this direction would have been a beautiful approach to Siena.
After 5 miles, we came to an industrial area, and a wreckers’ yard-interesting to watch. Bar Orente in Isola d ‘Arbia was closed, (we wished we had called into the café we had walked past in the industrial estate) we went in the patisserie next door and the kind owner made us a delicious fresh sandwich. We decided to continue along the main road, at the end of the village, calling into il Pino Bart Cafe for a coffee at 11am (2 hours 55mins, 7.2 miles, 155m ascent).
From the café we continued alongside the main road, before turning right to La Grancia di Cuna fortified farm-apparently one of Tuscany’s best-preserved. Parts of it date from the 12th/13th Century (9.8 miles, 4 hours 20 mins, 189m elevation). The buildings are very impressive, if not slightly in need of renovation. Some of it has been converted into flats, and some is a work in progress and covered in scaffolding.
We had a fabulous afternoon walking through rolling green fields with occasional farm houses, still with views back to Siena. The path then goes alongside a very quiet railway line, for a few miles, passing large fields.
We called into Bar H in Ponte d'Arbia for coffee, (17 miles, 7 hours 20 mins, 341m). The pilgrim bridge over the river is shut, so we carefully crossed by the ancient road bridge with traffic speeding towards us. We arrived at Hotel Ghibellino, in Buonconvento at 4.50pm.
Most of the restaurants didn’t open till until 7.30pm. As we wanted to eat earlier than this, we went to Charlie's Place for pizza, which was delicious.
Distance 20 miles (32km)
Duration of Walk 8 Hours 40 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1180 feet (360m)
Pace 26 min a mile
Websites used www.bookings.com Hotel Ghibellino, lovely modern hotel with breakfast
https://menulist.menu/restaurants/buonconvento/charlies-pub-pizzeria Dinner
Information
Buonconvento is described as one of the prettiest villages in Italy, and it does not disappoint. Its walls, buildings, archways, narrow streets, reminded us of a Dickens book. We quite expected the Artful Dodger to appear at any minute! There is a supermarket that we didn't visit on the outskirts of the town. We went to the fruit, veg and general food store, and a patisserie, both of which were open in the evening and early morning. We were so happy that we had walked the extra distance and decided to stay here. There was a beautiful sunset too.
Via Francigena Day 8 - Buonconvento to San Quirico d'Orcia
As usual we were up at 7am, and ate a lovely breakfast at our hotel Ghibellino. We left Buonconvento, passing the city walls at 8.15am. The fruit shop, and patisserie were both open at this time. We followed the path, passing the petrol station as the mist cleared from the Vineyards. Going along further tracks before arriving at Caparzo vineyard. If using the book written by Sandy Brown, we decided the picture on the cover is here!!
We stopped at Caparzo vineyard at 10 am (4.5 miles, 150m ascent). During the summer months they have a special pilgrim deal for €8 with wine, water and a sandwich. They opened specially for us, and we sampled some delicious wine, a real treat at 10am. We continued with the mist clearing with views to Montalcino, famous for producing some of Italy’s finest wines.
After 9 miles (327m, 3 hours 50 mins), we called into Tucci cafe, in Torrenieri. and ate a delicious tuna and tomato sandwich, and bought a few other things. The Easter display was something to behold!
Continuing along a quiet road with great views, then after a bridge we turned right, going under a main road, then uphill and through the main gate of San Quirico d'Orcia at 3.15pm. We walked round, and visited a couple of churches. There is a pilgrim’s stamp inside an office of pilgrims, and we saw the first advert we had seen for a pilgrim’s meal. We checked into our accommodation of Torre Camaldoli B &B at 4pm.
We ate dinner at bar La Torre, near the coop, that had been advertised for pilgrims. Being a quiet time of year, the pilgrim menu was not available, but we had a lovely meal, and ate the first chicken of the trip. It was very busy, and were lucky to get served first at 7.20pm. We bought food in the supermarket for the next 2 days.
Distance 13.3 miles (21km)
Duration of Walk 6 Hours 45 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 2030 feet (619m)
Pace 30 min a mile
Websites used www.bookings.com Torre Camaldoli B &B, part of the Capitano Collection, with the most amazing breakfast in a bar.
https://www.latorreristorante.net/ Dinner at La Torre restaurant, very nice. Busy with locals.
Information
San Quiro is a UNESCO world-heritage site. We took time to explore, walked on the walls, visit alleyways etc, both when we arrived and after breakfast the following day. It is a fabulous old town, however, we both preferred Buonconvento the previous day.
Via Francigena Day 9 - San Quirico d'Orcia to Gallina
The guidebook recommends a stage from San Quirico d’Orcia to Radicofani consisting of 20miles/33km of walking, with 3600feet/1100m elevation-most of it being towards the end of the day. After reading this, we decided to split the walk into 2 days by staying in Gallina which is 1km off the track. However, there is not much accommodation there, or food!! So, book well in advance. This would also give us more time to admire the views, and visit the castle of Radicofani once we arrived. Be careful too, as there are not many food stops along the way, so take supplies with you. We had been to the coop supermarket in San Quirico the night before to purchase.
After one of the most amazing breakfasts, we have ever eaten included in the room price, (Torre Camaldoli B &B, part of the Capitano Collection), we left late at 9am. If walking the whole section, we would have had to leave early, missing this sublime experience. We were soon in the countryside, passing more old properties. The hill-top castle at Radicofani can be seen for much of the day, looking very far away.
We passed through Vignoni Alto-with very pretty old buildings. After 3.5 miles, (134m ascent, 1 hour 40 mins), we arrived in Bagno Vignoni. The 16th century square is a collection of buildings, including a church and restaurants surrounding a pool of spring-fed hot water, making it the only aquatic square in Italy!!! In medieval times pilgrims were allowed to bathe here, unfortunately that is not allowed now. The spring waters then flow out towards the Orcia River, passing where 4 medieval mills used to stand. In the summer time, it is possible to swim in the pools down by the river. We called into Enoteca Bar for coffee, they sell some fruit, cake, chocolate etc to take away. There is a large hotel here, other accommodation, and restaurants making it a pleasant stop instead of San Quirico. We imagine this place would be very busy in the summertime.
Continuing, unfortunately the pedestrian bridge was shut, so we back tracked to the main road, before re-joining the path. We walked past Castiglione town, which looked a lovely place to visit, with a tower on top of the hill. Our track descends to proceed along the valley floor. Then ascends to Agriturismo Antonio with a bench and water tap, with fabulous views all the way back to San Quirico (9.5 miles 449m ascent, 4 hours 50 mins). We took the track to the left to Gallina, arriving at 3pm, staying at IL Pallaio Gallina.
We walked round the hamlet of Gallina, calling into cafe Panini on the main road, which is shut on a Saturday. There is one restaurant in town the 11 Parallel, that is only open for lunch. But they do take away food if booked in advance. We had ordered a very delicious chicken stew which was available for collection at 7pm, and ate in our room.
We had had a lovely, peaceful day, again with nice weather. We were very happy that we had decided to stay half-way to Radicofani. It was nice to have a shorter day than normal, and we could take our time.
Distance 12.4 miles (20km)
Duration of Walk 6 Hours including breaks
Elevation Gained 1610 feet (491m)
Pace 29 min a mile
Websites used www.bookings.com IL Pollaio Gallina, Good location. Very friendly and helpful English-speaking owner, who said we were the first guests of the season. (March)
Via Francigena Day 10 - Gallina to Radicafani
We left Gallino at 7.45am, keen to get on our way. There is a cafe, but it is shut on a Saturday, when we were there. But we had popped in the previous day to buy some cakes for breakfast. We had also bought food in advance from the Coop supermarket in San Quirico.
It was another quiet morning with just birdsong, as we wandered along country lanes. Then we walked along the side of the main road, before coming to a picnic bench, and a promising sign, saying Radicofani 8km. (4.9 miles, 154m, 2 hours 10 mins).
After 5.3 miles, we left the path to the right, and we arrived at a petrol station on the main road with vending machines, dispensing hot and cold drinks and some sweets etc. Better than nothing!! It is next door to the modern looking but shut Hotel Beyfn Ingress. It is such a shame it is closed.
We continued down the road and along a path, then back along a small road once more. We reached a picnic table with views and bins at Belvedere, (8.2miles, 387m, 4 hours). A very friendly Italian couple called Francesco and Patricia from Vitorio, stopped to chat, who were very interested in our walk. Radicofani was fortunately coming into view, and looking a lot nearer than previously.
After steady climbing, 400m ascent over the last 7kms, we arrived in Radicofani at 1 30pm. We looked at the Church, and the view. We called into Cafe Tocco, with a very friendly waiter and got a pilgrim’s stamp, eating a very delicious salad and cheese panini. We checked into our accommodation of Casa del Ciliegio-again a very old apartment, within the town walls.
Later we walked up to the fortress, which was another 150m to the top of the tower, and 1 mile up the road. We had a nice chat in English with Paulo who works in the ticket office. The castle is about 1,000 years old, has an amazing view. It was well worth the additional walk and €5 ticket price.
For dinner we ate at the Cave/La Grotta restaurant at 7pm, which was recommended for large portions and good food. As it was Saturday night, we booked in advance, good thing we had, as it was full. However, the food was not as good as we expected.
Distance 11 miles (17.5km)
Duration of Walk 5 Hours 50 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1965 feet (599m)
Pace 31 min a mile
Websites Used
www.bookings.com Casa del Ciliegio An authentic lovely flat, with a washing machine, and a cooker over 2 floors.
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1077103-d2277523-Reviews-Ristorante_La_Grotta-Radicofani_Tuscany.html Dinner, this was recommended, and very popular. We were disappointed in it though.
https://www.fortezzadiradicofani.it/eng/index.html The castle
Information
Radicofani is again a beautiful medieval town set at 800m, with numerous alleys. There are a few bars, restaurants and stores. There is a slightly larger supermarket on the outskirts of the town-just through the walls.
We were very pleased to have walked the stage from San Quirico d’Orcia to Radicofani over 2 days, giving us time to really appreciate Tuscany. As well as being more relaxing!
Via Francigena Day 11 - Radificani to Acquapendente
From Radicofani the route is mostly downhill, with a short climb to Acquapendente. The last 7km is alongside a busy road-take great care here, the traffic seems to be very fast, there is a long diversion via Proceno that could be taken to avoid this. We had visited the supermarket on the outskirts of Radicofani the previous night, a good thing as the restaurant recommended for lunch was shut.
We left at 7.45am and walked round the village, admiring the fabulous cloud inversion by the church. We ate breakfast at La Tocco, where we had eaten lunch the previous day. We left at 8.30am and walked back down the main street, through the gate passing the Tourist office, heading into the pretty countryside once more. We took time to look back to the tall fortress looking resplendent in the morning sunshine, with an amazing blue sky behind. After 3 miles, we reached an e-bike centre, a picnic bench and a superb sign saying Roma 184km. After 4.8 miles we went over an old bridge, passing some large farm houses.
We reached Ponte a Rigo (6.5 miles, 2 hours 15mins, 70m ascent), at the road junction. The old church is now a pilgrim hostel. There is a lovely picnic area in the shade and a sign to Canterbury 1460km, and Santiago de Compostela 1580km. We turned left following the path at the side of the road, going on the bridge over the river Elvella. We were excited to leave Tuscany and arrive in Lazio province (9.3 miles, 3.5 hours, 114m). The weather was warming up nicely. The path goes along the old road and tracks through fields, before arriving in Centeno. Unfortunately, the recommended La Dogana restaurant was closed.
Now the road walking begins for the next 7kms. Large trucks and cars race very fast towards you, also be careful of ones overtaking behind. We tried to stay in the gutter at times when the largest vehicles came past.
Eventually, we stopped at the very welcome, friendly Pilgrims Le Roghette rest stop, and bought sandwiches and drinks, (13 miles, 5 hours 15 mins, 138m ascent). We continued up a steep road, passing an old church with Aquapendente coming into view after 14 miles. The path now takes a strange detour going behind a derelict building down to an insect ridden stream, and up a steep hill. In hindsight we would have just continued along the road into the medieval town. We arrived at our fabulous accommodation of Casa Vacanze 11 Pugnalone at 2.50pm.
We walked round the town visiting the Basilica of Cathedrale di San Sepolcro, found at the end of the town. Then walked up to the tower of Barbarossa overlooking the town.
We ate pizza at Pizza and Piazza, on the main square.
Distance 14.8 miles (24km)
Duration of Walk 6 Hours 20 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 971feet (296m)
Pace 25 min a mile
Websites
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1077103-d7892303-Reviews-Al_Tocco-Radicofani_Tuscany.html Breakfast
www.radicofaniebike.it E bike centre, just in case you have had enough of walking!
www.bookings.com Casa Vacanze 11 Pugnalone A stunning apartment, newly renovated in a medieval building. Every small detail had been thought of, even including home-made cakes and biscuits which we ate for breakfast. We would totally recommend.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acquapendente_Cathedral Cathedral in Acquapendente
https://acquapendente.artecitta.it/en/barbarossa-tower/#descrizione Tower from the 12th century.
Information
Maybe because it was a Sunday, we did not find many restaurants open, so we ate pizza again. When we arrived, all the shops were shut, otherwise we would have cooked in the apartment.
Via Francigena Day 12 - Acguapendente to Bolsena
From Radicofani the route is mostly downhill, with a short climb to Acquapendente. The last 7km is alongside a busy road-take great care here, the traffic seems to be very fast, there is a long diversion via Proceno that could be taken to avoid this. We had visited the supermarket on the outskirts of Radicofani the previous night, a good thing as the restaurant recommended for lunch was shut.
We left at 7.45am and walked round the village, admiring the fabulous cloud inversion by the church. We ate breakfast at La Tocco, where we had eaten lunch the previous day. We left at 8.30am and walked back down the main street, through the gate passing the Tourist office, heading into the pretty countryside once more. We took time to look back to the tall fortress looking resplendent in the morning sunshine, with an amazing blue sky behind. After 3 miles, we reached an e-bike centre, a picnic bench and a superb sign saying Roma 184km. After 4.8 miles we went over an old bridge, passing some large farm houses.
We reached Ponte a Rigo (6.5 miles, 2 hours 15mins, 70m ascent), at the road junction. The old church is now a pilgrim hostel. There is a lovely picnic area in the shade and a sign to Canterbury 1460km, and Santiago de Compostela 1580km. We turned left following the path at the side of the road, going on the bridge over the river Elvella. We were excited to leave Tuscany and arrive in Lazio province (9.3 miles, 3.5 hours, 114m). The weather was warming up nicely. The path goes along the old road and tracks through fields, before arriving in Centeno. Unfortunately, the recommended La Dogana restaurant was closed.
Now the road walking begins for the next 7kms. Large trucks and cars race very fast towards you, also be careful of ones overtaking behind. We tried to stay in the gutter at times when the largest vehicles came past.
Eventually, we stopped at the very welcome, friendly Pilgrims Le Roghette rest stop, and bought sandwiches and drinks, (13 miles, 5 hours 15 mins, 138m ascent). We continued up a steep road, passing an old church with Aquapendente coming into view after 14 miles. The path now takes a strange detour going behind a derelict building down to an insect ridden stream, and up a steep hill. In hindsight we would have just continued along the road into the medieval town. We arrived at our fabulous accommodation of Casa Vacanze 11 Pugnalone at 2.50pm.
We walked round the town visiting the Basilica of Cathedrale di San Sepolcro, found at the end of the town. Then walked up to the tower of Barbarossa overlooking the town.
We ate pizza at Pizza and Piazza, on the main square.
Distance 14.8 miles (24km)
Duration of Walk 6 Hours 20 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 971feet (296m)
Pace 25 min a mile
Websites
www.radicofaniebike.it E bike centre, just in case you have had enough of walking!
www.bookings.com Casa Vacanze 11 Pugnalone A stunning apartment, newly renovated in a medieval building. Every small detail had been thought of, even including home-made cakes and biscuits which we ate for breakfast. We would totally recommend.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acquapendente_Cathedral Cathedral in Acquapendente
https://acquapendente.artecitta.it/en/barbarossa-tower/#descrizione Tower from the 12th century.
Information
Maybe because it was a Sunday, we did not find many restaurants open, so we ate pizza again. When we arrived, all the shops were shut, otherwise we would have cooked in the apartment.
Via Francigena Day 13 - Bolsena to Montefiascone
This is a shorter day of 12 miles, with a very pretty walk overlooking the lake. Before arriving in another medieval town, with a cathedral, museum, and lake views.
We had an amazing breakfast, where we were staying at Platini hotel, leaving at 8.30am. Instead of following the pilgrim’s route, we walked down the beautiful tree lined road to the lake. Two hundred trees were planted along the road in around 1870, making it one of the prettiest streets in Lazio. We turned left along the lakeshore, then up some small roads to the Coop supermarket. We turned right along the main road for a little way, then left up a track, before rejoining the main walk. By going this way as well as seeing the lake, we avoided 2 potential fords, and saw basalt lava columns, which we would have missed otherwise.
We went through the woods with views down to the lake and back to Bolsena (3.5 miles, 132m ascent, 1 hour 30 mins). We came to a picnic area at 4.5miles, 2 hours, 203m ascent. Then we walked through more very pretty woodland, but without a view of the lake. We came to another picnic bench, at 6 miles 2 hours 45mins, 315m. Later, we had views to the lake and Montefiascone Cathedral in the distance passing more vineyards. At 9 miles, 435m, 4 hours 20mins we came to a very pretty picnic area with a water tap.
Just before Montefiascone, we called into another pretty church on left, then went to Cafe Bistrot for a drink (10.5 miles, 5 hours 10, 514m ascent). We walked through the main gate up a steep road into the old piazza. We arrived at our conveniently located accommodation of Alloggio del Viandante at 2.40pm.
We visited the Rocco dei Papi museum site. For the €5 entry fee, there is a museum of architecture, and a pilgrim’s tower with fabulous views to the Mediterranean in the west, Apennine mountains with snow on to the east, and the tower of Radicofani to the north. All the areas/ ruins are described with a useful hand-held audio guide.
We also visited the Basilica Cathedral of Santa Margherita cathedral which has one of the largest basilicas in Italy, all beautifully decorated. We were the only people there.
Don't miss too, the statue of 2 pilgrims overlooking the lake.
We ate Napoli pizza at the recommended Carpe Diem restaurant. The location is incredible overlooking Bolsena Lake, with an amazing sunset. We visited the shop nearby, to buy food for breakfast and lunch the following day.
Distance 11.8 miles (19km)
Duration of Walk 6 Hours 2 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1980 feet (603m)
Pace 30 min a mile
Websites
www.bookings.com Alloggio del Viandante Great value for money, with a friendly English-speaking owner.
https://www.archeoares.it/en/rocca-dei-papi-montefiascone/ Museum, and pilgrims tower-we enjoyed it.
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g815534-d12460138-Reviews-Pizzeria_Ristorante_Carpe_Diem-Montefiascone_Province_of_Viterbo_Lazio.html
Dinner, not to be missed with stupendous views of the Lake. Lovely food too, with a pizza oven.
Information
Montefiascone is well worth spending an afternoon looking round, with the cathedral, and museum-all very quiet when we were there. The view over the lake is amazing, and we loved having dinner in the Carpe Diem restaurant.
Via Francigena Day 14 - Montefiascone to Viterbo
Another relatively easy day of 11 miles, through the countryside, with no services except maybe at the hot springs along the way. The last couple of miles are through an industrial estate and along busy roads. But Viterbo old town centre is somewhere definitely not to be missed! We had bought food the previous day, as there is nowhere along the route.
After having breakfast in our apartment, we left at 8.20am, with perfect views over the lake, arriving at the statue of pilgrims at 8.30am. Continuing through the town, going out through a gateway to another view point, we went down the road following the signs, to the countryside once more. We walked along a paved old Via Cassio path, lined with olive trees and vines. The route of the path is Roman in origin running from Rome to Florence, parts are still lined with flat rounded stones, with groves made by waggon wheels.
We continued beside the railway line, then through a beautiful tunnel, mind out for mud in wet weather (3.7miles, 1.5 hours, 23m ascent). A plaque on the bridge says "May the faith of God’s hand accompany you on every path of God's life", together with a lovely welcoming message.
After 4.5 miles we reached a lovely picnic bench by an old farmhouse, with great views to the sea and back to Montefiascone, and a very chatty farmer. We continued through more beautiful countryside, until we went under the motorway bridge, with a lovely mural, passing an industrial estate (9.5 miles, 3 hours 50 mins 117 m ascent). There is a Decathlon near here, if any new kit is required. We followed the signs which are located high on the lamppost, then went right at Burger King, and along the busy road in Viterbo.
After we checked into the Compasso Suites-located within the old Bank of Italy building. We visited the Cathedral, Church of the Trinita near the tourist office, and the fascinating Viterbo Sotterranea Museum €4 each, including an English audio guide. In the museum located in the ancient tunnels, contains a wealth of information about the history of the town Don't miss the old spectacular Pelligrino area of ancient alleyways.
We ate dinner at cafe Grandori.
Distance 11.3 miles (18km)
Duration of Walk 4 Hours 50 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 485 feet (148m)
Pace 25 min a mile
Websites
www.bookings.com Compasso Suites, Great location, absolutely amazing breakfast. Friendly owner, who excelled himself with the breakfast.
https://bagnaccio.it/ Thermal baths, shut when we passed.
Information
Viterbo is yet another fabulous place with the old Pilgrims area, churches, museums etc, all contained within the magnificent town walls. Just amazing. We really wanted to visit the museum of the templars but it was closed, with no sign of opening hours.
The hot springs at Parco Terme Bagnaccio were shut when we passed them, maybe as it was off-season.
We had bought food the previous day, as there is nowhere to eat along the route.
Via Francigena Day 15 - Viterbo to Vitralla
When we checked our guidebook, and the Via Francigena website, there are 2 different routes to Vetralla. We decided to follow the new variant which is 4km longer, but goes through the pretty town of San Martine de Colline.
After a most delicious breakfast we left our Hotel Compasso Suite at 8.30am. We walked through the old town for half a mile, before exiting through the Rome gate, over the railway line, with a sign Via Francigena Variant Cimina saying 5 hours/ 21.4km to Vetralla. We met one other pilgrim from France, who was camping. We walked along a bike track through beautiful woods, arriving through a gateway into the small town of San Martina (5.3 miles, 346m ascent, 2 hours 20 mins).
In San Martina we looked round the deserted large Abbey, before going to Bar Sunday for a coffee and sandwich. Just before we left town, we found a very handy supermarket. We walked down the lanes, turned left at a sign (7.8 miles, 414m ascent, 4 hours). We reached the small quiet village of Tre cocci (11 miles, 522m 5 hours 50mins), eating our food on a convenient bench. We passed the train station, then we went straight on instead of following the main walk to the right, which rejoins further along the road. We went over a river, and up a steep hill to Vetralla, passing an amazing wall mural.
We arrived at Albergo da Benedetta at 4.45pm.
We walked round the old town, then went for dinner at Al Babba restaurant.
Distance 13.5 miles (21.7km)
Duration of Walk 7 Hours 5 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1830 feet (557m)
Pace 31 min a mile
Websites
www.bookings.com Albergo Da Benedetta very nice stay
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g673503-d1939830-Reviews-Il_Babba-Vetralla_Province_of_Viterbo_Lazio.html Al Babba for dinner
Information
Of all the places we visited this town was the least interesting. The old town was rather run-down and drab with not much to see except for having a nice view. In hindsight, we might have continued along the alternative route and stayed in either Ronciglione or Colle Diana, visiting the beautiful Lago di Vico on the way.
Via Francigena Day 16 - Vitralla to Sutri
We were happy to leave Vetralla, with the thought of more medieval towns ahead, and the Roman amphitheatre at Sutri 16 miles away.
We had a delicious buffet breakfast where we were staying at albergo da Benedetta for €5 each. Leaving at 8.15am, we crossed the main road, walked up the hill, passing many interesting information boards about the walk, then turned left through the town. We went through the underpass, then turned left to visit the coop supermarket. Re-gaining the track, we went up a steep hill, passing beautiful wall murals. The most fascinating one shows all the stages of the walk between Canterbury and Rome.
There is a small shop in Giardiano, lots of new houses, and benches in the square. A
cafe was open besides the level crossing, we continued up the road to a lovely picnic area, with a water tap, then went through woodlands, with many pretty trees. We crossed the main road and went to patisserie Belli, stopping outside for a coffee and croissant (6 miles, 2 hours 50mins, 243m ascent). Again, another amazing shop, I have never seen such a large array of cakes!
The walk continues through almond groves, and arrives at the ruins of 3 towers. The history of them is confusing, either they were built by Orlando in 11th century, or 2 of them are Roman and the other is the remains of a bell tower from 10th century. Either way they are fascinating. We passed more olive and almond groves, then went under the railway tracks, uphill, through a gateway (10.8 miles, 313m, 4 hours 30mins) then passing fruit stalls and cafes into Capranica. We met a very friendly young girl Son from South Korea, heading north.
Capranica is a beautiful town, but note that the only cafe is just before the town. We walked through the pretty town, then descended the steps at the far end passing a picnic area and supermarket. We continued, going uphill again, then arrived at a hidden picnic bench near a river (12.5 miles). This is now a walk for a couple of miles along the valley by a river, with some bridges, and lots of trees-the Fosso Mazzano stream pathway.
Eventually, the town of Sutri high on the hill comes into view. But skirting around its base, we visited the ancient Etruscan tombs, carved into the soft tufa stone in the bottom of the cliffs. We then paid €3 each (discount for pilgrims), to visit the Roman Amphitheatre which is cut directly into the stone at 3pm (15.5 miles, 424 m ascent, 7 hours 15 mins). If you wish to go in, check out the opening times. When it’s closed you can just look through the doorway.
Later we walked round the medieval walled town, visiting the tourist information office and lovely cathedral. For a nice change we were able to cook in our apartment, so we visited the Conad supermarket nearby. There is a Laundrette too, just outside the city gate on Via Roncigilone.
Distance 16.7 miles (27km)
Duration of Walk 8 Hours including breaks
Elevation Gained 1512 feet (461m)
Pace 28 min a mile
Websites
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g2223513-d17393128-Reviews-Torri_D_Orlando-Capranica_Province_of_Viterbo_Lazio.html Orlando towers
https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sutri-amphitheatre amphitheatre
https://italiantribune.com/the-hidden-town-of-sutri/ caves
www.bookings.com Casetta Di Carlo Magno, a very authentic apartment in the old town
Via Francigena Day 17 - Sutri to Campagnano di Roma
We were now getting closer to Rome, and wondering if anything would change-not so far! Today is a walk of 17 miles, via Monterosi, and some pretty waterfalls.
We had another early start, after having breakfast in our apartment we wandered back through the old town leaving at 8.30am. We passed the Etruscan caves, and the Amphitheatre. The path splits here, there is a longer detour of 3.2km to avoid the road. We decided to take the shorter road option, thinking the road would be fairly quiet on a Saturday morning. Also, it is impossible on this walk to avoid all the road walking anyway. Turning right, we headed up a hill, then along the road and a track, where the alternative path then rejoins (3.2 miles, 48m ascent, 1-hour 15mins).
We continued through groves of almond trees, before pausing on a picnic bench (4.5 miles) outside the National School of Golf. Following a cinder track between 2 golf courses-the first seen-before we arrived at the town of Monterosi. We stopped at Cafe Gorgeous, ordering a sandwich and 2 coffees, good value at €5.50 (6.4 miles, 111m ascent, 2 hours 30 mins).
It was Saturday in Monterosi and market day, so the town was fairly busy. We called into the Carrefour supermarket. We continued over the motorway, along a cinder track at the side of it, then left along a track in beautiful quiet countryside once more.
We arrived at a large picnic with lots of people. We thought we could call in to visit the restaurant there and sit on the grass or the picnic benches, but it is actually a children's farm with an entry fee of €8. Instead, on the left are the very pretty waterfalls of Monte Gelato, and ruined mill buildings. We thought about paddling, but there were swarms of insects (12.5 miles, 200m ascent, 5 hours 15 mins) going along quiet tracks once more. Until after a 7 hour,16.5 miles, 335m walk, the town of Campagnano di Roma comes into view. It was another 80m up a very steep slope to arrive at 3.30pm.
Campagnano is another medieval town, but with fewer attractive features than previous ones. However, there is a fabulous arch dating from 1714. We went to Conad supermarket to buy dinner, happy to be able to cook in our apartment. There are a few restaurants and bars, but we didn't go in any.
Distance 17 miles (27km)
Duration of Walk 7 Hours 20 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1320 feet (402m)
Pace 26 min a mile
Websites
https://www.parchilazio.it/valledeltreja waterfalls
www.bookings.com L’arch di Campagnano. With a washing machine, and cooker.
Via Francigena Day 18 - Campagnano di Roma to La Storta
We were looking forward to the penultimate day of the walk, visiting the last medieval town of the trip, and passing archaeological sites. A distance of 14 miles.
After having breakfast in our apartment, we left at 8.05am passing the Sunday market just being set up. We went up the road passing the football ground, then along tracks with views of the valley. We arrived at the Santuario del Sorbo at 9.30am, with many cars parked and a full church service on, as it was a Sunday (3.5 Miles, 139m ascent, 1 hour 20 mins). There were some benches to sit on with a great view.
We headed downhill with a sign to Rome 36km, and views back to the monastery. This is popular spot with cyclists, dog walkers, and some wild horses, reminding us of the New Forest in England. We walked uphill into the town of Formello, stopping at Cafe Central (5.7 miles, 256m ascent, 2 hours 20mins). We called into the interesting archaeological museum and Tower-with the names of all the stages of the Via Francigena inscripted on the steps. Continuing slowly making the most of the last old town, we then descended to the valley on old steps. There is a sign of Roma 33km (12.10pm. 6 miles, 282m ascent 4 hours) – getting nearer now.
We walked through more very pretty and deserted countryside, before coming to a point where the path splits (10.3 miles, 371m ascent, 6 hours). We took the shorter variant, as we thought we would see Etruscan remains, but it was all rather disappointing. We just saw many fields with information boards, but nothing to see of any note. We arrived at an old Mill and weir (12.5 miles, 7 hours, 479m ascent). From the other path are the first views of Rome, which maybe would have been more interesting.
We walked down the main road, and arrived at Hotel Cassia in La Storta at 3.45pm. We were greeted by a very friendly receptionist, who also had a credential stamp. She recommended a local restaurant for dinner, La Fattioria di Clotilde. It was well worth the 15 mins walk along the busy main road. We avoided eating any more pizza, and had a burger each instead! We were looking forward to our walk into Rome in the morning.
Distance 14.2 miles (23km)
Duration of Walk 7 Hours 42 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 1900 feet (579m)
Pace 32 min a mile
Websites
https://discoverplaces.travel/en/experiences/activities/churches-and-places-of-worship/sanctuary-of-santa-maria-del-sorbo Monastery
www.bookings.com Hotel Cassia – lovely modern hotel, but more expensive that we previously paid.
https://lafattoriadiclotilde.it/ Restaurant for dinner, very friendly, and popular with the local Italians.
Information
We had thought about staying not in La Storta, as it lacks accommodation. Originally, we had thought of catching the train from here to Rome, checking into our hotel there, then returning the following morning, without our bags. In hindsight, we were glad that we did not do this, as I think it would have spoiled the novelty of arriving in Rome. However, the Hotel in La Storta was more expensive than one in Rome.
Via Francigena Day 19 - La Storta to Rome
The last day of a walk is usually tinged with some sadness. But on this occasion, we were very happy with what we had achieved, and were looking forward to arriving in Rome. The guide book suggests instead of walking alongside the busy main road catching a bus for the first couple of miles, before walking through the nature reserve. For us this does seem to go against the grain of a walk. But maybe it is a good idea!
We had also seen on the Via Francigena website that a section of the walk in the park in Rome was closed-more later.
After an amazing breakfast at Cassia Hotel, we left at 8.15am and walked along the side of a very busy road. There were only small sections of pavement, there were huge bins, with rubbish around them blocking the way, and cars parked, necessitating us to divert into the road. The bus seemed like a very good idea! After 3. 5 miles, 1 hour 10 mins, 29m ascent, we went over the motorway. Then very thankfully we turned right to walk through the nature reserve This was an amazing sanctuary after the busyness of the road, and it didn't feel like we were in a city at all. There are wide open areas, and a picnic bench after 5.5 miles.
Leaving the nature reserve (2 hours, 6.2 miles, 72m ascent), walking up the hill, take time to look round for a final glimpse of the view behind us, where we could see snow on the mountains in the distance. We continued through Rome, along busy roads, with signs. There was lots of traffic, narrow pavements with huge bins and rubbish near them. We called into Cafe Libertie (9.2 miles, 3 hours 15mins, 173m ascent), for a sandwich and coffee.
Turning left 11.55am, at we had had a warning that the route was diverted on the Via Francigena site, and a notice on the side of the nature reserve. But we checked out the Monte Mario Park anyway. The park was indeed shut (12.10pm) with no diversion given. We re-traced our steps along Via Truipoale, past Jungle Cafe, then after 200m crossed the road, going through the arch into the park. (10.5 miles).
From the park we were greeted by the most amazing view over Rome, meeting a couple of other pilgrims. After taking many photos, we walked down the slippery zig zags, and found the bottom gate locked. (1.30pm 11.78 miles). We climbed through the fence instead!! We called into a café, then bought a bottle of prosecco to celebrate in the square with.
We very happily arrived in St Peters Square at 2.30pm, with a couple we had previously met. There were queues to get in to St Peters, but with our pilgrims credential we could skip the queue, go through the metal detectors, and go inside to collect our certificate. It was very different from arriving in Santiago with the certificate given to us to complete ourselves, with an envelope to keep it in. No record was taken of distance walked. We had a quick visit to St Peters Cathedral, but we were returning the following day.
We spent a few happy hours in the square, celebrating our 270-mile walk, watching the queues to get in the church. And unlike Santiago no other pilgrims, nor a bag pipe player!!
We then spent a further 40 minutes walking to our accommodation of Residenza Belli Inn in the Trastevere district of Rome. We went to Baylon cafe, for spaghetti and a Greek salad.
Distance 13.4 miles (21.5km)
Duration of Walk 6 Hours 20 minutes including breaks
Elevation Gained 820 feet (250m)
Pace 28 min a mile
Websites
www.bookings.com Residenza Belli Inn
Information
We were very disappointed with today’s walk, definitely the worst day on the trip. We felt that maybe the walk could enter Rome along a completely different path. The first section was fairly dangerous, especially in the summer months with lots of pilgrims trying to dodge the very fast traffic.
When we came into Rome itself, the route was along busy roads, with narrow pavements, and large bins on them. Sometimes it was not an easy walk. Be careful on the roads, it is uncommon for cars to stop at a zebra crossing. Some drove through red lights when we were crossing on a green pelican light.
The view from the park over Rome, was fabulous though.
Advice on Rome
We were in Rome for 3 nights, the week before Easter, having walked there from Lucca. We had booked 3 trips on-line 2 months in advance, for St Peters, The Vatican Museums, and The Coliseum its surrounding area. Even 2 months in advance though, most of the timed spaces seemed to be booked. We did independent tours, alternatively a guided trip could be booked. In the end we didn't know whether we could have just got in on the day, but there did seem to be big queues for some sites. We met a couple who queued for 3 hours for the Vatican Museums.
Day 1 St Peters
We had booked St Peters with Tiquets.com, and arrived at 7.20am to collect the on-line audio tour at the assigned location. We then stood in the queue to get into St Peters, which gathered quickly behind us. Once we had passed through security at 8.05am we were led by our guide to the Dome. At 8.30am we got in, there is a choice of then taking the lift or as we did walk up 330 steps, going outside crossing a courtyard, then going inside the dome with amazing views down into the church. We climbed a further 302 stairs, to reach the top of the dome (8.50am). What should have been an amazing view was slightly spoilt by it being such a cold wet day.
At 9.10am we left the top, descended and by 9.30am we were back in the church, (with our audio guide which we had booked earlier). We left the church at 11am, observing the long queue in the pouring rain, to get in.
St Peters itself is actually free to get in, but you need to pay for the dome. The queues were enormous, maybe 2 hours by 9am. Get there early. We paid for the dome, and audio guide in advance, but booked the earliest time slot of the day. We didn’t see a cafe, we took our own food and water with us, there were long queues for the toilets.
We then caught the metro to visit the Museum of the liberation, it is very interesting with plenty of information in English. It is free to get in, with a donation. It is a very moving place to visit, with exhibits now in the original prisoner cells.
We walked to the Basilica di san Clemente church, walked past the coliseum and forum, visiting the stunning Victor Emmanuel Monument, before heading for the Trivi fountain (very busy) and Spanish steps (overrated in our opinion). We carried on to visit various piazzas, with Piazza Navona being the best one. We called into a lovely bar L’antica Enoteca restaurant.
We ate dinner at ai spaghetti in Trastevere, near to our hotel.
Day 2 Coliseum
We ate breakfast again in Bar San Calisto, near our hotel, then we walked to the Mamertine Prison. We had booked the tickets for the Coliseum in advance, and were told to collect them from the Mamertine prison. This opened at 8.30am and we collected a timed ticket for the Coliseum to enter at 10am. We visited the Mamertine prison, then walked to the Coliseum. Once there, there were 3 different gates to pass through, before entry. It was a very wet day with crowds of people sheltering. Using the same ticket we later visited the Forum, and Palatine Hill-which is a very large area. We spent hours here, as it is all very interesting.
Note though, that there is no food or drinks to buy and queues for the limited number of toilets. We took food and drink with us.
We went for dinner at a fabulous Restaurant Armare, near the Vatican, with our new friends that we had met on the Via Francigena walk.
Day 3 Vatican Museum
We had booked tickets on line to the Vatican Museum (€25 each, including €5 booking fee). We had a timed ticket for 8.30am, so we queued at 8.15am, and promptly got in. \once inside we then paid €8 each for an audio guide, which was very worthwhile. The museum is on a huge one-way system, with a map. Just before the Sistine chapel, there is a good value cafe with seating downstairs. We also visited the Pope's forms of transport, then we decided to leave.
We really enjoyed our 3-hour visit, and it had so many interesting and varied exhibits. We were very pleased to have booked the tickets in advance-which costs an extra €5 but when we saw the very long queues, we felt it was money well spent. Obviously, we could have stayed longer. You can keep the audio guide until you depart, with collecting bins by the exits. On the ground floor, there is a large café and toilets.
We then walked to the very sobering museum of Nazi atrocities against the Jews, located in the old Jewish Quarter. Later we walked round the Trastevere area, and would recommend walking up the hill to the fountain and Garibaldi statues, with some fantastic views over Rome.
Eating
Every day we had a very good value breakfast at Bar San Calisto and bought take away sandwiches, it is near our hotel in Trastevere. This is a very lively spot in the evening for drinks and sometimes live music.
https://www.aispaghettari.it/ Spaghetti restaurant, very nice food, and very friendly English-speaking staff, in Trastevere.
Restaurant Armare, was a more up-market restaurant, near the entrance to the Vatican Museum, with delicious food, and friendly staff.
Accommodation
www.bookings.com Residenza Belli Inn
We stayed here for 3 nights. It is located in the very popularTrastevere area, near the tram stop. We walked to the Vatican museums, Coliseum and St Peters, which was very pleasant along or over the river, all about a 35 minutes’ walk. On the last day, we were able to leave our bags, and collect them later.
We caught the tram to the mainline train station, from where we caught the train to the airport.
There are many bars and restaurants in Trastevere, with people sitting out on the old cobbles.
Advice
Take your own drinks and food. Bags are searched at all venues, but you can still take these in.
If queuing outside the venues, there is no shelter from the elements, so take sun hats, umbrella etc.
Once inside the main venues, there were few chairs.
There were long queues for the toilet.
If you have booked on line you need to take photo I.D. to gain entry, we were asked to show it at all venues.
Take headphones with you to listen to the electronic audio tours.
Other places which were recommended are: -
Castel Sant Angelo
Via Appica Antica
Ostia Antica
Pantheon
We enjoyed out trip to Rome, we would advise planning the attractions and buying the tickets well in advance. Maybe just choose the main venues, and taking time to enjoy the city.
Websites
www.bookings.com Residenza Belli Inn Very nice room, good value, luggage storage as well.
www.tiqets.com Colosseum entrance ticket
https://tickets.museivaticani.va/home Vatican Museum
https://www.tiqets.com/en/ Ticket site St Peters
https://www.museodellashoah.it/ Jewish Museum
https://barsancalisto.it/ Bar San Calisto, in Trastevere. We went here every morning for breakfast. It is a very popular venue, with some evenings with live music.
https://restaurantguru.com/Antica-Enoteca-Rome#google_vignette nice bar and food,
https://www.aispaghettari.it/ Lovely restaurant near our hotel in Trastevere
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d24146560-Reviews-Armare-Rome_Lazio.html Restaurant Armare
Resources Used
Lonely Planet Rome, Pocket edition, which we brought from England with us. There is a huge resource of books and websites to use.
Advice on Walking the Via Francigena, Italy
Lucca to Rome March 2024
We had a fabulous time, Tuscany was amazing, and we are so pleased that we have completed this walk. We walked in March, booking all accommodation a few months in advance. We complete the walk and arrive in Rome, before it gets more expensive, busier, and hotter in the summer months. It was very quiet on the path, which some people may not like.
The weather was lovely, apart from a couple of rainy afternoons. The walk would be much harder in hot weather, or in very heavy mud. We took umbrellas, and waterproof jackets.
The path was mostly very well-signed. We had a guidebook with us, as we always like to read about the places that we are passing through. We used the Via Francigena app occasionally too.
After heavy rain, we had to wade through some of the rivers. We took a small travel towel to dry our feet on. The water was very cold, we used our walking sticks to balance.
There are water taps and benches along the way- though not that many.
We struggled to find stamps for our credentials. We have previously walked Caminos in Spain. There, nearly every church, cafe, bar, and accommodation seemed to have a stamp. In Italy, the churches don’t have stamps, only a couple of bars had one and not at all the accommodation. We were disappointed with that, as we love to collect them, then frame the certificate once home as a memento. We thought we would need them to collect the certificate in Rome too.
There were no pilgrim meals, unlike in Spain. But again, maybe just the wrong time of year.
We preferred the first section of the trip, passing through medieval towns, and very pretty countryside. The last couple of days were less appealing. The worst day by far and very disappointing was the last day into Rome, with some horrendous roadway walking.
We usually walk in Spain, and found the accommodation more expensive in Italy- but considerably cheaper than being in England. The food is dearer than being in Spain, and in our opinion a lack of variety. (personally, I am not fond of pizza!)
All of the accommodation was absolutely stunning, mostly in the old towns, and being 100s of years old. The owners that we met were very friendly and helpful, and obviously took great pride in their accommodation. We loved everywhere we stayed, some places had a kitchen and a washing machine in too.
Be careful on the roads, it is uncommon for cars to stop at a zebra crossing. Some drove through red lights, when we were crossing on a green pelican light.
Overall, we loved this walk, visiting some absolutely stunning towns and villages, must being 800 years old. We would really recommend it, especially the first 6 days.
Happy travels.
Items to take
We wore boots, but we also take trainers, just in case of any problems with the boots. Some of the paths were rocky with loose stones, muddy and wet, so we thought boots a good option.
Take fruit, snacks, cereal bars etc, and plenty of water, as on some days there are no refreshments en-route.
As usual take sun tan lotion, sun hats, a tick card, insect repellent, spare laces, and a good first aid kit, as there are few pharmacies en-route (and sometimes closed all afternoon). Take a phone and battery chargers, so the apps can be used.
We used the winter hats and gloves that we had taken, especially in Rome where it was cold and wet. We were so pleased we had our umbrellas with us, bought from Decathlon. We took waterproof jackets, but not trousers or ponchos.
We mostly wore walking trousers, then shorts for the final 3 days. We always take a walking stick each, we only used them to cross the rivers and in heavy mud. We took a small travel towel to dry our feet on, after fording the rivers.
We had read that you needed to be smartly dressed to eat in the restaurants in Italy. We had no problem, wearing our clean walking clothes.
Take headphones with you even if you never normally do, to listen to the audio tour of San Gimignano and Siena Cathedrals. These are on a QR code to down load to your smart phone.
Resources used
Cicerone Book. Walking the Via Francigena, Part 3 Lucca to Rome by Sandy Brown
How to walk the Via Francigena from Lucca to Rome by Lotus Eaters Travel-we read this before we went and left it at home as it is heavy to carry.
Via Francigena App
We both have Garmin watches, which record details on our phones. The distance, time taken, elevation, steps, and a map of the walk is then recorded. We find this very useful
Happy travels, and hopefully, many more walks.
In the words of the most famous hiker – Alfred Wainwright, in relation to the Coast-to-Coast Walk in England.
“I want to encourage in others the ambition to devise with the aid of maps their own cross-country marathons and not be merely followers of other people's routes: there is no end to the possibilities for originality and initiative.”