The Great Malaga Path - GR 249

The Great Malaga Path - GR 249 - Stage 33 - Mijas Pueblo to Benalmadena

Mijas to Benalmadena, Malaga, Andalucía, Southern Spain

This walk near Malaga, Southern Spain, follows the GR249 from Mijas to Benalmadena. Mijas is a superb typical Andalucian white washed village which deserves a visit in its own right. We were staying for a few weeks in Torremolinos where we have stayed many times before. There are many walks in the vicinity, as well as fantastic beaches and restaurants. Transport links are good, with a regular bus service to Mijas and Malaga.

We caught the bus number 121 from where we were staying in Torremolinos at 9am, to Mijas Pueblo, arriving 50 minutes later in the main square. Mijas being close to the coast is a real tourist hotspot. There are public toilets in the main square next to the tourist information from where we obtained very useful free maps from an English speaking assistant. In Mijas there is a multitude of cafes/restaurants and a couple of supermarkets. On this walk there is nowhere to purchase any supplies so we had brought sandwiches, food and water with us.

We set out from the main square at 10.10am,taking the steps at the side of Bar Gonzalez and going straight on over the road, following the walkway up to the main road, before turning left for 150m. We crossed over the road to a very useful information board with many local walks displayed, and a sign to our destination Benalmadena 17km along the GR249. After ten minutes of walking we reached the very beautiful Hermitage built in 1792, we have been here on a few occasions and it is always locked. If in Mijas make sure you walk here even if nowhere else. The views up and down the coast are stupendous. We re-traced our steps for about 50m then followed the red and white signs uphill, leaving here at 10.30am.

After 25 minutes we turned right following the red and white signs and a blue sign on a post. Ten minutes later at a sign for Sendero Puerto Malaga we again followed the red and white, continuing uphill and on reaching a road we turned right. We followed the relatively level track round the corner, turning right signposted Benalmadena, passing a quarry to the right, many beautiful trees, then through a disused gate.

After 40 minutes of walking, the track opens up in a clearing with various routes off it. We turned right up a wider track heading slightly uphill. We passed through a gate down concrete steps, missed the sign and went straight on along a narrow path. After about 200m we saw the error of our ways, as we were on the top of a very steep drop directly above a disused quarry!!! Very scary. Given how well worn this path is, we realised a lot of people had taken the wrong way. We very carefully retraced the path back to the concrete steps and saw the sharp left turn we should have taken. Be very careful at this point not to make our scary mistake. Ten minutes later we arrived at a road unusually with no sign. We chose the uphill route, but after about ten minutes realised this must be wrong and turned round following the road back down hill. Eventually we saw a sign saying right to Benalmadena 10.6 km.

Another 10 minutes brought us to a clearing with more amazing views, on one side was the sea, another way views of all the countryside behind Malaga, and in the far distance snow on the mountains behind Nerja and ahead of us a hill with many television towers on. At 12.50pm we sat on chopped down tree trunks and ate our lunch. We continued along the mostly well sign-posted rocky path, through trees, with intermittent views. After a further 90 minutes at 2.10pm we reached the road to the towers. Here there is a choice to follow the road or continue along the path, we are not sure which was quicker but we followed the path. At 2.30pm we reached the road again and followed it up the final couple of metres to the top.

After 4 hours of walking including breaks, we reached the highest point of the walk, by the television towers, which are a landmark for miles around.

The weather was fantastic, windy and sunny, so different to a cold February day back in England. We were treated to some of the best views we have ever had, stretching all the way along the coast to Gibraltar, and a large part of North Africa. We have been previously walking in Spain in January and February and found the views excellent, maybe due to the colder air.

Slightly retracing our steps, to the right there is a concrete bench and an information board with details of all the walking routes above Benalmadena and Torremolinos. We took the path in an easterly direction, the gently undulating route being quite easy to follow, with sandy or rocky terrain.

After 30 minutes we came to a sign for Benalmadena 3.4 km down Route 3 following the Gr249 path that we had taken for most of the day, which we took. The path was not straight down as we had imagined, but with various uphill stages. It was tough going underfoot, only improving slightly after we had crossed over a dried up river bed, and passed several concrete huts. After an hour we reached some more signs for R3 or R4. We turned in a westerly direction parallel to the motorway on our left. After another 15 minutes we turned left under the motorway arriving at the end of our walk in Benalmadena Pueblo. Here there is a board with routes back up the mountain. We followed the road downhill, until reaching a large veterinary practice, we turned left and found our bus stop back to Torremolinos.

We were disappointed with this route down, finding it harder work than we had expected, even though it is a pretty path through the trees. But another time we would carry on along the ridge and come down Routes 1 or 2 instead, as on our walk from Alhaurin de la Torre to Benalmadena.

Also we did not like the long dark tunnel under the motorway, and biting insects found here by the river. But the advantage of this route is you could have turned right on the main road by the vets practice and walked the short distance into Benalmadena Pueblo. This white washed village is definitely worth a visit in its own right, similar to Mijas with small pedestrianised streets, a stunning viewpoint and many bars and restaurants. The bus also leaves from here to Torremolinos and Malaga.

We have previously walked this route in the opposite direction from Arroyo de La Miel to Mijas. On that occasion when arriving at the television towers we followed the walk down the road and after about 5 miles met the main road into Mijas. The GR 247 definitely takes a longer time. But even though the views from the road are great, the ones from the GR are definitely so much more spectacular.

This is a walk that we would recommend, with superb views. However, it is a long day with no supplies available. I would recommend doing this walk in the cooler months like we did- February, and maybe leaving earlier than we did if possible.

The GR249 is a roughly circular route running around the province of Malaga, 650km over 35 stages. Maybe a thought for us for a future walk. The majority of the path is well signposted, with posts with red and white stripes, or slashes of red and white on the rocks. They are usually found at regular intervals, so if none have been seen for a while, maybe it is a good idea to make sure that you are still heading the correct way.

Distance  11.185 miles (18km)

Duration of Walk 7.50 Hours  including breaks

Elevation Gained  2395 feet  (730m)

Elevation Lost 3280 feet (1000M)

Information/Advice

As usual wear boots, take a phone, take sun hats, sun tan lotion and plenty of food and water as after leaving the start there is nowhere to replenish supplies. It can also be chilly on the top, especially if windy or the clouds roll in, so take a wind proof jacket ,hat and gloves. I would advise taking a compass too in case you lose your way. This walk took us considerably longer than the estimated time given on line of 6 hours 15 minutes, so try to leave early, then relax and enjoy it as you go. 

Being located in southern Spain, I would advise not doing this walk in the summer months as it would be far too hot, and would require carrying too much water.

Check the weather forecast before setting off, as it would be a shame to walk all this way and have no view. This area of Southern Spain is accessible from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching  the reliable, cheap public transport.

Websites used

https://www.mapmywalk.com/

https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather

http://www.andalucia.com/mijas/bus-services.htm

http://www.gransendademalaga.es/en/

http://www.gransendademalaga.es/en/etapas/lis_cd-6637/gr-249-etapa-33-mijas-benalmadena

Resources used

Walking Coastal Walks in Andalucía by Guy Hunter-Watts, Cicerone Press.            We followed the first part of Walk 23 Mijas Circuit. The last third of the walk is the opposite way down Walk 27, Benalmadena circuit. The middle section of the walk not being in the book. It is useful to have the book to refer to, with some maps in, but the walk is signposted most of the way.

The walk is on the GR249, sections of which can be printed out or accessed by phone.

We looked in bookshops in Malaga for any maps of the area, but could not find any. If anyone knows where to get a map from, please contact us.

 

 

The Great Malaga Path - GR 249 - Stage 34 - GR249 Stage 34 Benalmádena to Alhaurín de la Torre

 

This walk covers a section of the GR249 from Benalmadena to Alhaurin de La Torre, we had done this walk previously, but in the opposite direction. The walk starts with a fairly steep ascent, then the path meanders along near the ridge, before descending by a dried up stream. We increased the trip length by summiting Pico Palomas. The views from the top are sensational, and it is definitely worth the walk.

This is one of our favourite walking areas, many walks are easily accessible, generally well-marked out, and very quiet. This is a linear walk of about 14km, but public transport is available at each end, usually frequent and cheap in Spain. Alternatively, there are many local taxi companies, which don’t seem to over charge. As it was June we were aiming for an early start, as it can get very hot in Southern Spain.

We caught bus number M110 from near where we were staying in Torremolinos to Benalmadena Pueblo alighting at 8.30am outside the vets and walking up the steep Calle Luis Cernuda. We went past a park with various signs for walks, through a gate, and under the motorway (not very nice). We turned right at the GR249 sign to Alhaurin 14.5km, it is a nice path parallel to the motorway. After 0.4km we took a path to the left going steeply up hill. We seemed to have lost the GR white and red markers but the path has white and yellow markers and headed in the correct direction. We had great views back over the motorway to the coast beyond. An hour after leaving we came to a path junction and continued upwards, reaching the top of the signed PR 57 at 10.15am. We had the feeling that the local council had removed the old red and white signs and replaced them with yellow and white. We were happy to reach the top path, and turned right by a notice board. We were high up, but the motorway can still be heard along with birdsong. The whole mountainside is covered with pretty vegetation, pine trees, and supports a wide variety of little insects, numerous butterflies and small lizards.

The path undulates just below the ridge, heading east. Occasionally there are views inland to villages, mountains, and a massive quarry. The trail passes through rocky areas, sandbanks, pine and holm oak forests and aromatic scrub plateaus, using tracks sometimes but mostly very well-preserved paths. After 3 hours of walking, we reached a welcome sign to Alhaurin de la Torre 6.8km, it was really heating up now. The walk then passes round the back of Mount Calamorro (771m), there is a path to the summit from here, which we did not take. On the top of Mount Calamorro there is a large recreational area and a station for the cable car which descends to Benalmádena. We continued along a broad track, then turned up another track, saying no cars allowed. Ten minutes later we arrived at the Auberge de Lomo (12.15pm), unfortunately closed. We took a diversion for ten minutes walking to the lookout point ‘Canada de Lobo’, this has fabulous views to the Sierra Nevada Mountains, Maroma and the sea, but unfortunately there was no shade. We returned to the auberge to find shade and eat our lunch(12.35pm), with fabulous views. 

We left continuing past the 2nd refuge which was also shut, last year when we were here both were shut. We must return when they are open. We arrived at the Puerto del Canuto where the GR249 heads left downhill. We continued upwards (east) for another 15 minutes and reached the top of Pico Palomas (599m), marked with a white trig point. We feel that this is the best view of the day, with the whole city of Malaga, Sierra de Almijara and the sea, one could stay there forever just taking it in, and watching the planes landing at the airport too. Returning to the Puerto, we went northwards downhill with glimpses of Alhaurin through the trees. This is a very pretty path, following the dried-up Zambrano stream bed with pretty butterflies and birdsong, and plenty of vegetation. We arrived at the information board at 3.20pm, and continued walking back down the road- Camino de La Vinas-after 15 minutes we reached the main road-Avenue De Malaga. We turned left looking for a café open for drinks, but went in the Coviran supermarket instead. Sometimes we catch two buses back to Torremolinos changing near Ikea, but on this occasion, we caught a taxi as it had been a very hot day. 

This is a fantastic walk, with great views, the weather can be changeable, and take plenty of food and water.

Distance   10 miles (16km)

Duration of Walk 7 Hours including breaks

Elevation Gained 2891 feet (881m)

Pace 41 min a mile

Steps 37300

Information/Advice

There are a couple of auberges on the way, both unfortunately shut when we were there, necessitating our carrying all food and water. It is a long climb up from Benalmádena but the path is well signposted, reaching the line of the Sierra de Mijas, where there are various paths leading down to the local villages. The routes were originally used by muleteers, coal miners and people of the countryside. Any of these routes down can be taken at any time, then public transport or taxi can be taken back to your accommodation.

This is a walk that we would recommend with superb views. It would be best to walk in the cooler months and maybe leaving earlier than we did, as it was a very hot day in June. Check the weather forecast before setting off. The previous week wecompleted the walk the opposite way, and even after checking the weather forecast, we had rain and thick fog on the top.

Whilst staying in Torremolinos we were walking a couple of stages of the GR249. We found information on it very hard to find, there isn't a book, we tried Malaga information office and the town hall and a couple of book shops. I emailed the GR249 website, who said all details are on-line. In hindsight we should have printed off the relevant parts at home in England before flying out, not being able to print anything here. We will be better prepared next time.

The GR249 is a roughly circular route running around the province of Malaga, 650km over 35 stages. Maybe a thought for us for a future walk. The majority of the path should be well signposted, with posts or paint on rocks with red and white stripes. They are usually found at regular intervals, so if none have been seen for a while, maybe it is a good idea to make sure that you are still heading the correct way. 

As usual wear boots, we wear Lowa. Take a phone and battery chargers, so the apps can be used. Take sun hats, sun tan lotion and plenty of food and water as after leaving the start there is nowhere to replenish supplies. This is one of the few walks where we used walking sticks on the way down as the path is very unstable, with loose rocks and sand.

If walking in Spain we always take walking books with us, purchased in England. We have found they are fairly hard to purchase in Spain, even in Spanish. We tend to use Cicerone Books, but others are available. In general, the tourist information offices don’t contain any information about walking.

The walk started in Benalmadena Pueblo, this white washed village is definitely worth a visit in its own right, similar to Mijas but smaller, with small pedestrianised streets, a stunning viewpoint and many bars and restaurants. The bus can be caught from here to Mijas, Torremolinos and Malaga.

This area of Southern Spain is accessible from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching the reliable, cheap public transport.

Websites used

https://www.mapmywalk.com/

https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather

http://www.andalucia.com/mijas/bus-services.htm

http://www.gransendademalaga.es/en/

arc_196249_v5.pdf (malaga.es)

http://www.gransendademalaga.es/en/etapas/lis_cd-6638/gr-249-etapa-34-benalmadena-alhaurin-de-la-torre

Resources used

Walking Coastal Walks in Andalucía by Guy Hunter-Watts, Cicerone Press.                        We followed parts of walk 26 and walk 27, and have walked various routes round these mountains previously. It is useful to have the book to refer to, with some maps in, but the walk is signposted most of the way. The Ruta signs which had always been there have been replaced by new walks, which makes things slightly confusing.

The walk is on the GR249 website, sections of which can be printed out or accessed by phone.

We have  looked in bookshops in Malaga for any maps of the area, but could not find any. We went to a very helpful shop – Mapas y Compania in Malaga. We bought a topographical map of the area-but this is so different from English Ordnance survey maps, with contours on, but no paths.

 

The Great Malaga Path - GR 249 - Stage 35 - Final Stage - Alhaurin De La Torre to Malaga

 

This walk covers the final stage of the GR 249 from Alhaurin de la Torre to Malaga. This is an interesting walk, crossing agricultural land, down the side of Malaga airport, through a nature reserve, via some of the city, and then ending besides the beach. We were hoping that the route would be fairly well signposted, as the only maps we had are online. We are intrigued to find out why the GR249 does not start/end in the middle of the city as expected, but about 3 miles south.

We were staying for a few weeks in Torremolinos where we have stayed many times before. There are many walks in the vicinity, as well as fantastic beaches and restaurants. Transport links are good, with a regular bus service nearby to Mijas and Malaga. We caught bus number 110 in the direction of Malaga, alighting at the stop after Ikea, crossing the bridge over the main road, then catching bus number 132, alighting in Alhaurin.

We had previously finished stage 34, from Benalmadena to Alhaurin at the Sendero Jabalcuza sign on Camino de Las Vinas, and walked down to the main road. On the official GR249 site the next stage starts in El Penon, we thought this very odd, and cannot think of a reason why. So, we decided to walk the intervening stretch.

We alighted the bus at 9.15am, walking down Camino Finca del Aleman, passing Supersol on the right. There are walking signs and a map to Penon y Zapata which we followed. We headed downhill, then left along the A404 Malaga Road, right at a roundabout by a shell garage down the Avenida Las Americas. This is a lovely tree-lined road between the fields, with a wide pavement to walk along. Forty minutes later we arrived in Penon, going straight on down Avenida de Gran Canaria, past an ecological building-with birds living in it. We knew the start of the walk was somewhere near, and after some searching, we found in the far corner of a play park a notice board with Stage 35 on it, and a map. 

We went to the very nice Pena de Roja bar for Coffee and toast. The day was already warming up, and I had the feeling we should have arrived earlier!! We returned to the board, but there are no arrows indicating which street to turn down. We checked our online maps and found the route out of town down Fuente Del Nogal, then actually a sign saying Camino de Guadalhorce/Malaga 13km, we were happy to find it. The track passes over a very smelly irrigation channel, turning right ten mins later at the red and white sign, following the drainage channel, left by a sign, down a dirt track, then right under a motorway bridge with graffiti on. There are fabulous views all around, over the crops of proteas to the mountains of Mijas, and the mountains of Malaga. It is unusual for us to be down on the plain, instead of in the mountains, but enjoyable.

After the motorway there is a 5-way junction, we turned right following Salida de Camiones sign. At 11.25am we reached the hamlet of Zapata, where there is part of an aqueduct known as Puente del Rey. Building was started in 1727, to bring water from Churriana to Malaga, building mills along it, and provide a bridging point of the river. But due to money disputes it was never completed, but has recently been declared a site of historical interest. Some houses have been built into the structure. I thought it really interesting.

We turned left at a sign saying attention walkers, going down a very busy narrow road, with plenty of cars from the nearby airport parking. There were no signs here, unfortunately we went the wrong way, and walked for 15 mins up a track on the wrong side of the river. On our map there was a bridge over it, but in reality, it is a rather deep ford. As we did not want to wade through the very dirty water, we re-traced our steps. The correct path follows the road over the river, before turning left to follow a long track along the perimeter of the airport. A couple of signs at this point would have been fantastic.

It was fascinating walking past the airport, somewhere we have been so often, but seeing it from a completely different angle. Malaga airport was first opened in 1919, and has expanded many times since, in 2019 it handled 20 million passengers, the Costa Del Sol being a very popular location.

We reached a sign at 12.30pm 6.6km to go, we were actually looking forward to the end, as the temperature must have been hitting 30 °C especially with the sun bouncing off the white stony path. We enjoyed watching the planes coming in too, there are security cameras and fences so that the runway can’t be accessed.

After the airport, we passed under a motorway, turning right towards an old TV building, then left heading towards the sea. Then turned left over the new bridge over the River Guadalhorce. The bridge was finally opened in September 2020, and is very impressive. Turning right where the path splits, make sure you take the left one, otherwise you will end up in the middle of the delta. That was the last sign we saw !!, We continued to the sea, then went left along the promenade, hoping to find a large Fin de Camino sign. We looked and eventually near Casa Lucas restaurant on Playa de La Miscericordia was a notice board for the first stage of the walk from Malaga to Rincon de La Victoria, gratefully arriving at 2.15pm. We presumed this was the end.

 This is one of the strangest endings to a long-distance walk that I know, without an actual end. We have done many walks, including 2 Caminos in Spain, the English Coast to Coast and the GR20 in Corsica. They all have proper end points. Also, there must also be a reason for the walk starting/ending not in the city centre but 3 miles away. Please let me know.

We went to the 100 Montaditos restaurant nearby – a very popular chain in Spain, serving good value food and drinks. We then walked for 15 minutes down Avenido de Los Guindos to catch the 110 bus, to where we were staying in Torremolinos.

Distance 13 miles (21km)

Duration of Walk  5Hours including breaks

Steps 32042

Information/Advice

Whilst staying in Torremolinos we were just walking a couple of stages of the GR249. We found information on it very hard to find, there isn't a book, we tried Malaga information office and town hall and a couple of book shops. I emailed the GR249 website, who said all details are on-line. In hindsight we should have printed off the relevant parts at home in England before flying out, not being able to print anything here.  We will be better prepared next time.

The GR249 is a roughly circular route running around the province of Malaga, 650km over 35 stages. Maybe a thought for us for a future walk. The majority of the path is well signposted, with posts with red and white stripes, or slashes of red and white on the rocks. They are usually found at regular intervals, so if none have been seen for a while, maybe it is a good idea to make sure that you are still heading the correct way. 

We had failed to follow our advice of not walking in southern Spain in the summer, as the walk was too tempting. It was definitely a very hot day with the sun beating down, we saw no one else walking just a few cyclists. We could have skipped our extra leg from Ahaurin to Penon, saving a couple of hours during which time it would have been cooler.

As usual wear boots, we wear Lowa, take a phone and battery charges, so the apps can be used. Take sun hats, sun tan lotion and plenty of food and water as after leaving the start there is nowhere to replenish supplies, except in Penon.

This area of Southern Spain is accessible from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching the reliable, cheap public transport.

If walking in Spain we always take walking books with us, purchased in England. We have found they are fairly hard to purchase in Spain, even in Spanish. We tend to use Cicerone Books, but others are available. In general, the tourist information offices don’t contain any information about walking.

Websites used

https://www.mapmywalk.com/

https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather

http://www.andalucia.com/mijas/bus-services.htm

http://www.gransendademalaga.es/en/

GR 249. Stage 35. Alhaurín de la Torre - Málaga - Costa del Sol Málaga - Diputación de Málaga (malaga.es)

King's Fountain Aqueduct - Wikipedia El acueducto de la Fuente del Rey

Málaga Airport - Wikipedia

Guadalhorce River Bridge opens at last! | GuideToMalaga.com

Resources used

We looked in bookshops in Malaga for any maps of the area, but could not find any. We went to a very helpful shop – Mapas y Compania in Malaga. We bought a topographical map of the area-but this is so different from English Ordnance survey maps, with contours on, but no paths.

Cafés visited

Peña La Roja in El Peñón - Restaurant reviews (restaurantguru.com)


100 Montaditos - Cervecería