Grazalema Natural Park
Day 1 - Northern Circuit, Grazalema, Andalucia, Spain
Grazalema parque natural is just west of Ronda, Andalucia, Spain. It is an area that we have looked at visiting for a few years and finally had the opportunity. The area exceeded our expectations, with some of the best views we have had, great walking, and beautiful whitewashed villages. We would definitely recommend a trip here. A word of advice though ensure you take maps and walking books with you, as none are available when you are there, and some walks were not signed. Various walks are shut over the summer months, and at other times of the year require a permit-see more later.
We left our base near Malaga and drove 2 hours to the village of Grazalema. This walk was meant to be a short introduction to the area, it was pretty, with great views, but boy did we get lost!!!! Grazalema is a beautiful well kept village, we parked in the large car park at the top end of the village. It was a quiet day in October when we visited, but at weekends or in the summer, it would have been very busy. We called into Rumores bar for toast and coffee €2.20 each in the beautiful main square.
We left La Plaza de Espana at 10.30am, walking past Hotel Puerta de la Villa, turned right, then left into Calle de Arriba, right again, then after 15m turned left down a cobbled footpath- an old medieval path, with superb views. After ten minutes we crossed over the main road A372, then down a tarmac road signed for the windmills. (Molinos Harineros)Ensure you look back at the village situated on top of a limestone cliff with caves. After passing 3 farmhouses after approx one mile, take the left fork (10.55am). Ten minutes later the track ended in a field of cows. Look carefully and go ahead through a wire-and-post gate, we have not seen these gates before.
The path continues along undulating country through oak trees, it can't be seen here but keep heading towards a small white house topped with solar panels. Eventually there are an assortment of paths. Find the ford across the stream, then arriving at a green gate, turning right. Follow the obvious path past a wood pile, over a stream, then left just before a fountain, one hour after leaving. At this point we were happy to be on a path, heading uphill following red spots on rocks, then going through 2 black gates, to a canada sign (canada meaning old drovers road), finally one more gate. This is a beautiful walk through shady woods, but with of lots of undergrowth, and partial views of the horizon. There was plenty of insect and bird life, but no people.
Eighty minutes after departing, we got lost! Maybe we should have turned right at a gate with string on, but it seemed too firmly shut. We continued uphill through the wood, accompanied by goats with bells. Another forty minutes and we finally arrived at the top of the ridge, regretting not having undone the string on the gate! but far too late now. But we were on a proper path and stopped for lunch by a gap in a wall, with great views, and soaring vultures. We were still lost but reassured that we could see and hear the road below and hear dogs barking.
We continued down towards the road, arriving there at 1pm, but unfortunately there was a very high fence between us and the road, otherwise we could have just walked down it. We turned right along a path, thinking at some point we would rejoin our original path or the road, regrettably not. We were more and more lost, but we then met a Spanish shepherd, who was herding sheep, not with a dog, but with various whistle commands which was very interesting to watch. We then realised that we were trespassing on his property, but he very kindly led us the way across his land to the main road. At this point, we could have given up on this walk, and just walked down the main road a few miles to Grazalema, but no we wanted to continue with this walk, thinking that we could not get so lost again!! From Fuente Aguanfria on the main road, where lots of Spanish had stopped their cars to fill water containers, we turned right for ten minutes, before arriving at a bridge on the road, taking a left turn up a track Huerta el Cardera. We were happy to be back on the right path at 1.50pm
We followed the steep concrete road, then at 2.05pm just before a black gate blocked the path, turned left past a house to a palm tree, over a dried up stream, following red spots. We went through a black gate, passed olive trees then realised we were lost again. Part of the problem being the paths are either sheep/goat tracks or paths for locals to use when collecting olives.
We went back, then over a fence, uphill to a small white building by a threshing floor, now back on track. Following the farm yard track left, then right, then left past a concrete post, arriving at 2.45pm at a goat enclosure, turning left at a red arrow towards a pylon. After 200m we turned right through a bed gate (yes again something only seen in this area-a gate made from a bedstead). Turning left next to the pylon at 2.50pm we finally arrived at Grazalema's reservoir, El Embalse Del Fresnillo, looking beautiful with turquoise water. We could see for miles, and looking back we tried to work out where we had gone wrong 3 times earlier. Continuing down left hand side of reservoir towards the dam, the last problem of the day arose. Having gone down the steps at the side of the dam, we found that the gate at the bottom was padlocked shut. Not to be beaten at this point we removed our rucksacks, and carefully climbed over the gate. Alternatively we could have gone back up the steps and taken a different path down. The last part of the walk back to the village was obvious, following the water pipe, and a green and white marker, finally crossing the old bridge, thankfully arriving back at 3.20pm, before we got lost any further!
If you only fancy a very short walk, just walk up to the reservoir from the village, the reward being the same views that we had worked so hard to get!!
This walk was a slightly disappointing start to the area, getting lost so many times, with no signposts, we hoped that our other days would be better. However, the views and scenery made up for it. We had also made a bad mistake-wearing shorts when there was so much undergrowth, both of us having numerous scratches on our legs.
Distance 8.22 miles (13.2km)
Duration of Walk 5.2 Hours
Average Pace 39 Min/Mile
Steps 28900
Elevation Gained 1974 feet (601m)
Information/Advice
As usual take a phone and charger, sun hats, sun tan lotion and plenty of food and water as after leaving the start there is nowhere to replenish supplies. I would advise taking a compass too, as it is easy to lose your way.
We always wear shorts, but on our first day we were extremely scratched by all the undergrowth. We found it too hot to wear the walking trousers we had taken, but a pair of gaiters would have helped, just wearing them when leg protection was necessary. After walking through long grass or undergrowth we always check our legs for ticks-and carry a tick card to remove them just in case.
Wear boots, the only way to go, we wear Lowa boots, originally designed in Germany, and very popular with walkers there. Having worn out previous pairs, with an excess of 1,000 miles walked in them, we are now on our third pair. They are available from Lowa on-line, in Decathlon, and probably other places too.
Being located in southern Spain, I would advise not doing this walk in the summer months as it would be far too hot, and would require carrying too much water.
Check the weather forecast before setting off, as it would be a shame to walk all this way and have no view.
When we were there in October it was very hot, but it could have been chilly, especially if windy or the clouds roll in, so take a wind proof jacket and hat. Apparently this is one of the wettest areas of Spain.
We try and use public transport when in Spain, being cheap and plentiful, or walk. But this area is fairly inaccessible by public transport, so we had hired a car in advance.
Some of the walks in this area require a permit, they are closed from June 15th to October 15th due to fire risk. Outside of these dates, a permit is needed and beware as ours was checked on exiting one of the walks. They are issued at the tourist office in El Bosque, which was thirty minute detour for us, needing a passport number. Only 15 are issued each day for the walk. We tried to get them on-line, but they required 2 weeks' notice which we had not given. Sometimes permits can be picked up from the tourist office in Grazalema too. We found the process frustrating as did some Spanish walkers that we met.
This area of Southern Spain is accessible from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching the reliable, cheap public transport or the route that we have done previously driving from our home in Manchester then catching the 24 hour relaxing ferry from Plymouth to Santander, then touring through Spain.
Websites used
https://www.lowa.co.uk/
www.booking.com Hosperderia y Aptos Casa de las Piedras - we booked an apartment, which was handy for making sandwiches, but we ate breakfast and dinner in local restaurants - being such good value.
Cafeteria Rumores-Grazalema Breakfast
Bar la Posadilla-Grazalema Dinner a couple of nights (nice food, we would not advise the mixed tapas though)
Restaurant Meson el Simancon-Grazalema This was superb value for money, with a set menu for €14 each
Resources Used
Walking the Mountains of Ronda and Grazalema Walk 22
by Guy Hunter-Davies Cicerone press. This series can be bought in England
Walking in Andalucia Walk 11 same walk. Just in a different book.
by Guy Hunter-Davies Cicerone press. This series can be bought in England
Sierra De Grazalema Map, purchased previously in Ronda
Day 2 - Simancon, El Reloj, Grazalema, Andalucia
Grazalema parque natural is just west of Ronda, Andalucia, Spain. It is an area that we have looked at visiting for a few years, and finally got the opportunity. It exceeded our expectations, with some of the best views we have had, excellent walking, and beautiful whitewashed villages. We would definitely recommend a trip here. A word of advice though ensure you take maps and walking books with you, as none are available when you are arrive, and some walks were not signed. Various walks are shut over the summer months, and at other times of the year require permits-see more later. We had left our base near Malaga and driven 2 hours to the village of Grazalema. This is a beautiful ancient well kept village. It was quiet in October when we stayed, but at weekends, it would have been very busy.
Today's walk was a circuit to the south of the village climbing the mountains of Simancon(1564m and Le Reloj (1535m)-Grazalema has an altitude of 812m, so not as hard as it may seem. The walk covers a variety of landscapes, starting steeply through a forest, then across a rocky limestone plateau, followed by a very steep climb to the top of Simancon, descending then to Le Reloj then returning to the village. We would really recommend this walk, with virtually unsurpassed views. After being very lost and getting scratched legs the day before, we were hoping for better things. And we were not disappointed.
We called into Rumores bar for toast and coffee, €2.20 each, set in the beautiful main square of La Plaza de Espana, leaving at 8.40am.We set out going to the left of the Unicaja bank, up the pretty cobbled streets of Calle Las Piedras and Calle Nueva, through the town and after 15 minutes, we arrived at the old cheese factory next to a car park. We turned right joining the main road, past camping Tajo Rodillo, 5 minutes later we went through a gate on the left by an information board. Passing a large donkey blocking the way! and followed the path through a green metal gate. It was an obvious path, up through pretty trees, reaching the tree line at 9.30am, arriving at the top of the slope with fantastic views. At 9.35am the path splits by a sign saying,1km to the camp site, 2.3km to Grazalema, and the way we went Mirador/Puerto del Boyar 3.4km.
We carried on down through the trees, going left, then down the left hand side of a very large enclosure. We took the left hand side of a clearing, then 20m later left on a path, going uphill amongst the pines. At 11am we arrived at the saddle and continued across a rocky limestone plateau with the steep side of Simancon to our left. We continued, then about two-thirds of our way across a cairn appeared indicating to go left up the very steep slope following more cairns, and yellow arrows on a black background. We arrived at the top of Simancon (1564m), 2.5 hours after setting out. After eating lunch with views over the clouds to Africa in the distance, we left the top at 12pm, descending a very steep slope for 15 minutes, the rocky limestone terrain reminiscent of some of the GR20 across Corsica. There are some cairns to follow, but care needs to be taken. Along a small ridge, then coming to the top of the 2nd summit of the day Le Reloj (1535m, the watch in English), with views across to Ronda and all round.
We met some Spanish walkers on the top, who had been following us for some time. When leaving they were going straight north down the front of the mountain facing Grazalema, we followed our guide book going directly south, then taking a big loop back to the village. We did not see them again, and we hoped they made it back ok. Leaving the top at 1pm, we descended down another steep rocky path with cairns, arriving 15 minutes later in a flatter area. The cairn indicated left, then ten minutes later we turned left again, finally left again, past a black water pipe on the right, with a stone well. The path is now relatively easy to follow, sandy beneath the trees, passing a stone corral. The path was so well worn at this point we wondered if people just came up here, before turning back. There were great views back showing how high we had been earlier, and how quickly we had lost a lot of altitude. The path grew really pretty, through beautiful trees, with interesting rock formations, and piles and piles of cut wood just left to rot.
At 3pm we came to a junction, with a sign to camping 1.8km (which would have taken us back down the original path) and one for Grazalema 1.5km which we followed. After ten minutes of uphill walking through the trees, we came to the top of the ridge, then followed the stony path with wooden marker posts down, with views of the village and the dam beyond. Interestingly the path turned left following a fence past the campsite, arriving back through the gate to the car park where we had started, at 3.40pm, not back in the village square as we had been expecting.
We loved this walk, and would recommend it with a variety of landscapes and staggering vistas.
Distance miles (8.08 Miles 13 km)
Duration of Walk Hours 7 Hours 20 mins
Average Pace 54 Min/Mile
Steps 36190
Elevation Gained 2581 feet (786m)
Information/Advice
Take a phone and charger, sun hats, sun tan lotion and plenty of food and water as after leaving the start there is nowhere to replenish supplies. It can also be chilly on the top, especially if windy or the clouds roll in, so take a wind proof jacket and woolly hat. I would advise taking a compass too in case you lose your way, insect spray, and maybe a Spanish phrase book.
Wear boots, the only way to go, we wear Lowa boots, originally designed in Germany, and very popular with walkers there. Having worn out previous pairs, with an excess of 1,000 miles walked in them, we are now on our third pair. They are available from Lowa on-line, in Decathlon, and probably other places too.
We always wear shorts, but on our first day in the area we were extremely scratched by all the undergrowth. We found it too hot to wear the walking trousers we had taken, but a pair of gaiters would have helped, just wearing them when leg protection was necessary. After walking through long grass or undergrowth we always check our legs for ticks-and carry a tick card to remove them just in case.
A word of advice though ensure you take maps, and walking books with you, as none are available when you are there, and some walks were not signed.
The problem with rocky terrain, is that it would be fairly easy to fall, and damage something. On our walk, there were no people around, and no mobile phone signal. I imagine that there is no mountain rescue service-the civil guard may come out, but may charge. So take care.
Being located in southern Spain, I would advise not doing this walk in the summer months as it would be far too hot, and would require carrying too much water.
Check the weather forecast before setting off, as it would be a shame to walk all this way and have no view.
We try and use public transport when in Spain, being cheap and plentiful, or walk. But this area is fairly inaccessible by public transport, so we had hired a car in advance.
Some of the walks in this area require a permit, those walks are closed from June 15th to October 15th due to fire risk. Outside of these dates, a permit is needed and beware as ours was checked on exiting a walk. They are issued at the tourist office in El Bosque, which was thirty minute detour for us, needing a passport number. Only 15 are issued each day for the walk. We tried to get them on line, but they required 2 weeks' notice which we had not given. Sometimes permits can be picked up from the tourist office in Grazalema too. We found the process frustrating though!!, as did some Spanish walkers that we met.
This area of Southern Spain is accessible from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching the reliable, cheap public transport.
Websites used
https://www.lowa.co.uk/
www.booking.com Hosperderia y Aptos Casa de las Piedras - we booked an apartment, which was handy for making sandwiches, but we ate breakfast and dinner in local restaurants - being such good value.
Cafeteria Rumores-Grazalema Breakfast
Bar la Posadilla-Grazalema Dinner a couple of nights (nice, but we would not advise the mixed tapas though)
Restaurant Meson el Simancon-Grazalema This was superb value for money, with a set menu for €14 each
Resources Used
Walking the Mountains of Ronda and Grazalema Walk 21, (Grazalema Southern circuit) by Guy Hunter-Davies. Cicerone press. This series can be bought in England
Walking in Andalucia Walk 9 Grazalema Southern circuit
by Guy Hunter-Davies. Cicerone press. This series can be bought in England
Sierra De Grazalema Map, purchased previously in Ronda
Day 3 - Villaluenga Circuit, Grazalema, Spain
Grazalema parque natural is just west of Ronda, Andalucia, Spain. It is an area that we have looked at visiting for a few years, and finally had the opportunity. It exceeded our expectations, with some of the best views we have had, excellent walking, and beautiful whitewashed villages. We would definitely recommend a trip here. A word of advice though ensure you take maps and walking books with you, as none are available when you arrive, and some walks like this one, were not signed. Various walks are shut over the summer months, and at other times of the year require permits-see more later. We had left our base near Malaga and driven 2 hours to the village of Grazalema. This is a beautiful ancient well kept village. It was quiet in October when we stayed, but at weekends it would have been very busy.
This walk contained some staggering views-some of the best we have experienced- rocky terrain and hidden valleys and was a joy to complete. If you want to be alone-this is the walk.
Leaving Grazalema where we were staying, we drove the short distance to the village of Villaluenga (872m), parking at 9.25am in a huge empty car park by a cheese museum-open at the weekend. Crossing the main road we went up the street to the rectangular bullring, which we popped in as it was open. We followed round the back of the bull ring, then opposite the bullring's Puerta A, turned right and headed parallel to a stone wall, and a line of street lights. On this street opposite the recycling bins there are a couple of steps cut into the wall, this is the start of the walk. There was no signpost and we would have never found this without our guidebook. None of today's walk was signposted-the guide book was essential-we did lose our way a couple of times, but mostly got back on track. We went up the steps, over the wall, picking up a path passing an old weather station to the left, then going through a wire-and-post gate. Then15m later we went through a second gate. Ensure you look back over the small pretty village hugging the side of the valley, with a church in the middle. We wondered why there was a bullring and such a huge car park for such a small village.
We followed the now obvious path past an old well and trough. Shortly before a gate, the path turns left, and we passed a small cave at 9.50am. Making good progress, as we zigzagged up the steep hill towards a fence with a gate to the right, which we did not take, but went left up the steep slope to an open gate. We went straight up gaining altitude arriving at Puerto del Ahorcado (1240m). Then the path bends left with great views over the village, valley and mountains beyond. Rounding the corner, the path now sticks to the left of a stone wall following the cairns. The top of Navazo Alto with a yellow and red concrete trig point (it used to be green and white) comes into view (10.50am). We reached the top of Navazo Alto 1395m at 11.30am, to be rewarded with some of the best views ever, way down to Gibraltar, Africa, and the surrounding mountains. It was also interesting having views back to the mountains of Simancon and El Reloj, where we had been the day before. Take a fleece, as it was windy.
From the top the same route back to the Puerto can be taken, but we took a different one. We reluctantly left the summit at 12.20pm, then after a short distance we turned right by the first big cairn, following the path, and after another 100m at another junction, going left. There were some tricky sections on this path, there are some cairns but there could have been more, sometimes it was difficult contouring above the scree slopes. But the views over the valley where we had started are superb. After some effort, we re-joined the original path at 12.50pm, and followed it back to the Puerto (col). If you wish to curtail the walk at this point, then just walk back to the village, taking the path down.
We turned left through a gap in the wall down to a large grassy area. We strolled across it, past a couple of cows, pigs, wild boars and goats. We continued past rocks on the left, then through the trees. At the end of the valley, the path takes the right hand side down a slope with cairns, to a superb 2nd valley, again with lots of animals grazing. We headed past an old bath tub, then along the right hand side of a large enclosure (1.30pm). The valley was very pretty, we continued straight across it, past prickly trees and bushes, before going up the slope at the far end. At the top of the slope we went through a gate in the wall, carrying on down a path past a well and trough (2.05pm). Then going to the left of the poplars and past a fenced corral.
The path since the Puerto had not been easy to find, but we had sort of guessed and eventually got back on track. Here though we lost the path as described in the book, then gave up looking. We continued in the direction we had been heading using the maps on the phone as a guide. We went through a brown gate in a wall, (2.30pm) then walked down a path with cairns through pretty trees. We came to an old wooden sign with an arrow saying carretera (road) 800m. We were happy to see the sign and hear some traffic. We followed the rough path down through the trees (3.00pm), going through a gap in a stone wall. Happily the road came into sight, with a footpath by a pylon on the right, then through a gate. The path runs parallel to the road, arriving at a picnic area, that we had seen as we had driven to the village in the morning. Hindsight, at this point it would have been easy to walk along the road back to the village, but we continued along a rough path passing cows and pigsties. The path led to a gate, then we joined the brand new pavement arriving back in the village at 3.45pm.
We really enjoyed this walk, the views from the top, the two hidden valleys. We saw no other people all day and it was a mystery to us how the cows had arrived in the valleys, which are surrounded by steep slopes. Day two in Grazalema parque natural had been infinitely better than day one, and no thorns either. It is just amazing that this walk is not signed from the village at all. A great day out. Definitely to be recommended.
Distance 6.7 miles (10.8km)
Duration of Walk 6 Hours 15 mins
Average Pace 58 Min/Mile
Steps 34230
Elevation Gained 2362 feet (720m)
Information/Advice
Take a phone and charger, sun hats, sun tan lotion and plenty of food and water as after leaving the start there is nowhere to replenish supplies. It can also be chilly on the top, especially if windy or the clouds roll in, so take a wind proof jacket and woolly hat. I would advise taking a compass too in case you lose your way, insect spray, and maybe a Spanish phrase book.
Wear boots, the only way to go, we wear Lowa boots, originally designed in Germany, and very popular with walkers there. Having worn out previous pairs, with an excess of 1,000 miles walked in them, we are now on our third pairs. They are available from Lowa on-line, in Decathlon, and probably other places too.
We always wear shorts, but on our first day in the area we were extremely scratched by all the undergrowth. We found it too hot to wear the walking trousers we had taken, but a pair of gaiters would have helped, just wearing them when leg protection was necessary. After walking through long grass or undergrowth we always check our legs for ticks-and carry a tick card to remove them just in case.
A word of advice though ensure you take maps and walking books with you, as none are available when you are there, and some walks were not signed, like this one.
The problem with rocky terrain, like part of this walk, is that it would be fairly easy to fall and damage something. On our walk there were no people around and little mobile phone signal. I imagine that there is no mountain rescue service-the civil guard may come out, or may charge. So take care.
Being located in southern Spain, I would advise not doing this walk in the summer months as it would be far too hot, and would require carrying too much water.
Check the weather forecast before setting off, as it would be a shame to walk all this way and have no view.
We try and use public transport when in Spain, being cheap and plentiful, or walk. But this area is fairly inaccessible by public transport, so we had hired a car in advance.
Some of the walks in this area require a permit, (not this one), those walks are closed from June 15th to October 15th due to fire risk. Outside of these dates, a permit is needed and beware as ours was checked on exiting a walk. They are issued at the tourist office in El Bosque, which was a thirty minute detour for us, and needed a passport number. Only 15 are issued each day for the walk. We tried to get them on line, but they required 2 weeks' notice which we had not given. Sometimes permits can be picked up from the tourist force in Grazalema too. We found the process frustrating though!!, as did some Spanish walkers that we met.
This area of Southern Spain is accessible from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching the reliable, cheap public transport.
Websites used
https://www.lowa.co.uk/ Boots
www.booking.com Hosperderia y Aptos Casa de las Piedras - we booked an apartment, which was handy to make sandwiches for lunch, but we ate breakfast and dinner in local restaurants - being such good value.
Cafeteria Rumores-Grazalema Breakfast
Bar la Posadilla-Grazalema Dinner a couple of nights (we would not advise the mixed tapas though)
Restaurant Meson el Simancon-Grazalema This was superb value for money, with a set menu for €14 each
Resources Used
Walking the Mountains of Ronda and Grazalema Walk 25, Villaluenga circuit via Navazo Alto and Bajo by Guy Hunter-Davies. Cicerone press. This series is vital and can be bought in England.
Sierra De Grazalema Map, purchased previously in Ronda
Day 4 Morning - Coros, Grazalema, Ronda, Spain
Grazalema parque natural is just west of Ronda, Andalucia, Spain. It is an area that we have looked at visiting for a few years, and finally had the opportunity. It exceeded our expectations, with some of the best views we have had, excellent walking, and beautiful whitewashed villages. We would definitely recommend a trip here. A word of advice though ensure you take maps and walking books with you, as none are available when you arrive, and some walks were not signed. Various walks are shut over the summer months, and at other times of the year require permits-see more later. We had left our base near Malaga and driven 2 hours to the village of Grazalema. This is a beautiful ancient well kept village. It was quiet in October when we stayed, but at weekends it would have been very busy.
This walk provided some staggering views-some of the best we have experienced. It is a relatively easy and short walk, but well worth doing. When we met the shepherd on day one, he told us this was a walk that we had to do-and he was not wrong.
Leaving Grazalema where we were staying, we drove the short distance to the Puerto de las Palomas (1189M), on the road towards Zahara de la Sierra. Parking at the large empty car park at 9am, we were already surrounded by spectacular views. On the left hand side of the car park (away from the road) is a gate, where the stony path begins. The path is obvious and circles the mountain angling gently upwards with views over to Zahara and the turquoise reservoir. After 25 minutes walking, by a small cairn we took the right fork, continuing upwards, whilst watching the vultures soaring on the morning thermals in the valley to our left. Minding a couple of steep slopes to the left, we just headed up the path towards the weather station. We arrived at the concrete trig point on top of Coros (1328m) at 10.10am. We were again rewarded with spectacular views back over to our previous walks at Grazalema, and where we were heading later that day beyond the reservoir, at Lagarin, El Castor.
After spending some time watching the vultures, we left the summit at 10.30am, heading west past the weather station. This was an easy run down, after 15 minutes passing a white forestry hut on the left, then down through pine trees with beautiful blue skies behind, following the wide gravel path, through a green gate arriving back in the car park at 10.50am. The walk was very quiet, meeting only one other couple.
Again we would really recommend this short trip. If lacking time, just do part of the walk, or go to the top the way we came down, which would not take more than 30 minutes, each way.
Distance miles 2.17 (3.5 km)
Duration of Walk 2 Hours 50 mins
Average Pace 41 Min/Mile
Steps 7844
Elevation Gained 541 feet (165m)
Information/Advice
Take a phone, sun hats, suntan lotion and some food and water. It can also be chilly on the top, especially if windy or the clouds roll in, so take a wind proof jacket and woolly hat.
Wear boots, the only way to go, we wear Lowa boots, originally designed in Germany, and very popular with walkers there. Having worn out previous pairs, with an excess of 1,000 miles walked in them, we are now on our third pairs. They are available from Lowa on-line, in Decathlon, and probably other places too.
We always wear shorts, but on our first day in the area we were extremely scratched by all the undergrowth. We found it too hot to wear the walking trousers we had taken, but a pair of gaiters would have helped, just wearing them when leg protection was necessary. After walking through long grass or undergrowth we always check our legs for ticks-and carry a tick card to remove them just in case.
A word of advice though ensure you take maps and walking books with you, as there are none are available when you are there, and some walks were not signed
The problem with rocky terrain, like part of this walk, is that it would be fairly easy to fall, and damage something. On our walk there were no people around, and little mobile phone signal. I imagine that there is no mountain rescue service-the civil guard may come out, but may charge. So take care.
Being located in southern Spain, I would advise not doing this walk in the summer months as it would be far too hot.
Check the weather forecast before setting off, as it would be a shame to walk all this way and have no view.
We try and use public transport when in Spain, being cheap and plentiful, or walk. But this area is fairly inaccessible by public transport, so we had hired a car in advance.
Some of the walks in this area require a permit, those walks are closed from June 15th to October 15th due to fire risk. Outside of these dates, a permit is needed and beware as ours was checked on exiting a walk. They are issued at the tourist office in El Bosque, which was a thirty minute detour for us, and needed a passport number. Only 15 are issued each day for the walk. We tried to get them on line, but they required 2 weeks' notice which we had not given. Sometimes permits can be picked up from the tourist office in Grazalema too. We found the process frustrating though!!, as did some Spanish walkers that we met.
This area of Southern Spain is accessible from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching the reliable, cheap public transport.
Websites used
https://www.lowa.co.uk/
www.booking.com Hosperderia y Aptos Casa de las Piedras - we booked an apartment, which was handy to make sandwiches, but we ate breakfast and dinner in local restaurants - being such good value.
Cafeteria Rumores-Grazalema Breakfast
Bar la Posadilla-Grazalema Dinner a couple of nights (very nice, we would not advise the mixed tapas though)
Restaurant Meson el Simancon-Grazalema This was superb value for money, with a set menu for €14 each
Resources Used
Walking the Mountains of Ronda and Grazalema Walk 24, Puerto de Las Palomas circuit via the Coros peak by Guy Hunter-Davies. Cicerone press. This series is vital for these walks and can be bought in England.
Sierra De Grazalema Map, purchased previously in Ronda
Day 4 Morning - El Gastor circuit via Lagarin, Grazalema, Spain
Grazalema parque natural is just west of Ronda, Andalucia, Spain. This is an area that we have looked at visiting for a few years, and finally had the opportunity. It exceeded our expectations, with some of the best views we have had, excellent walking, and beautiful whitewashed villages. We would definitely recommend a trip here. A word of advice though ensure you take maps and walking books with you, as none are available when you are there, and many paths were not signed. Various walks are shut over the summer months, and at other times of the year they require permits-see more later. We had left our base near Malaga and driven 2 hours to the village of Grazalema. This is a beautiful ancient well kept village. It was quiet in October when we stayed, but at weekends it would have been very busy.
This half day walk from El Gastor, contained some amazing views, pine forest, rocky terrain, and an old dolmen - 6000 year old burial chamber-worth the walk for this alone.
Leaving Grazalema where we were staying, we had completed a half day walk of Coros in the morning. We then continued driving to the village of El Gastor, off the Ronda to Algodonales road. We made a mistake of following the sat nav, which took us all the way through the steep medieval village-something to be avoided.
Parking at the La Ladera picnic area above the town at 1pm, we set out, turning left by the information board, up a concrete road, and passing a white building on the right. After 35meters, we turned left through a pallet gate along a pleasant path marked with red and white slashes under shady pine trees, arriving at an era (old threshing area) at 1.15pm with views to the village. We carried on uphill following the red markers, at a large cairn we turned left zigzagging upwards through the trees. The path in places was indistinct, with occasional signage. Eventually the pine trees are replaced by some oaks, the path turns sharp left (east) just beneath a line of concrete fence posts. We continued and at the top of the slope, turned right following a steep rocky cairned path with views over the reservoir, before arriving at the top of Lagarin (1066M) at 2.20pm.
It was windy at the top, but we could have stayed there forever watching the vultures, this time they were joined by paragliders. The views again are fantastic, with the sun shining on the beautiful turquoise reservoir below. On the cover of our book the author has taken a great picture of his hat placed on a rock with this view, we spent time trying to re-create this.
Eventually we left the top, (3.00pm) taking the way down that we had come up until reaching a fence with a stile (3.10pm). Going over the stile now the opposite way to which we had come, following red markers and a fence on the right to the col found between Lagarin and Las Grajas. At this point you could continue to the top of Las Grajas(1049M), but we decided not to spend another couple of hours walking to the top and back, as this was the 2nd walk of the day, and we felt that the views we had had could not be beaten.
Instead we turned left at the lowest point of the col, (3.30pm), towards El Gastor village, taking the gentle path with wide curves down the hill side, towards a line of poplars. Fifteen minutes later a ruined farmhouse comes into view. We reached a fork going right on a narrower path which goes to a very large oak tree and picnic bench underneath. Turning right here for 30m we came to the Dolmen Del Charcon. This is a burial chamber 8.5m in length, 1.5m wide, and 1.5m in height. The tomb was first excavated in 1975, arrow heads and pottery shards were found in the main chamber. Fascinating to find something so old, and imagine who had built it.
Returning to the oak tree, we turned right down a track once more towards the line of poplars, passing Cortijo Del Postigo (old farmhouse) sadly ruined on a broad track going through a green gate. We continued following yellow markers along a concrete path for 450m with the village coming into view through the trees, then following the path above the top of the village. We arrived back at the start at 4.20pm.
This was again a beautiful walk, however we did get rather lost on the first section. Alternatively the way down did seem more straight forward, going to the col, then down to the Dolmen, then down a track. Maybe we will return another day and go that way to the top of Las Grajas.
Distance 3.87 Miles (6.2km)
Duration of Walk 3 Hours 30 mins
Average Pace 54 Min/Mile
Steps 17308
Elevation Gained 1151 feet (350m)
Information/Advice
Take a phone and charger, sun hats, sun tan lotion and some food and water as after leaving the start there is nowhere to replenish supplies. It can also be chilly on the top, especially if windy or the clouds roll in, so take a wind proof jacket and woolly hat. I would advise taking a compass too in case you lose your way, insect spray, and maybe a Spanish phrase book.
Wear boots, the only way to go, we wear Lowa boots, originally designed in Germany, and very popular with walkers there. Having worn out previous pairs, with an excess of 1,000 miles walked in them, we are now on our third pairs. They are available from Lowa on-line, in Decathlon, and probably other places too.
We always wear shorts, but on our first day in the area we were extremely scratched by all the undergrowth. We found it too hot to wear the walking trousers we had taken, but a pair of gaiters would have helped, just wearing them when leg protection was necessary. After walking through long grass or undergrowth we always check our legs for ticks, and carry a tick card to remove them just in case.
A word of advice, ensure you take maps and walking books with you, as none are available when you are in the natural park, and some walks were not signed, like parts of this one.
The problem with rocky terrain is that it would be fairly easy to fall and damage something. On our walk there were no people around, (as usual) and little mobile phone signal. I imagine that there is no mountain rescue service-the civil guard may come out-or may charge. So take care.
Being located in southern Spain, I would advise not doing this walk in the summer months as it would be far too hot, and would require carrying too much water.
Check the weather forecast before setting off, as it would be a shame to walk all this way and have no view.
We try and use public transport when in Spain, being cheap and plentiful, or walk. But this area is fairly inaccessible by public transport, so we had hired a car in advance.
This area of Southern Spain is accessible from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching the reliable, cheap public transport.
Websites used
https://www.lowa.co.uk/
https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=https://www.prehistoriadelsur.com/2014/11/dolmen-de-el-charcon.html&prev=search&pto=auewww.ayto- ancient burial site
www.booking.com Hosperderia y Aptos Casa de las Piedras - we booked an apartment, which was handy for making sandwiches, but we ate breakfast and dinner in local restaurants - being such good value.
Cafeteria Rumores-Grazalema Breakfast
Bar la Posadilla-Grazalema Dinner a couple of nights (very nice, we would not advise the mixed tapas though!!!)
Restaurant Meson el Simancon-Grazalema This was superb value for money, with a set menu for €14 each
Resources Used
Walking the Mountains of Ronda and Grazalema Walk 27 El Gastor circuit via Lagarin and Las Grajas by Guy Hunter-Davies. Cicerone press. This series can be bought in England
Sierra De Grazalema Map, purchased previously in Ronda
Day 5 - The Garganta Verde, Grazalema, Andalucia, Spain
Grazalema parque natural is just west of Ronda, Andalucia, Spain. It is an area that we have looked at visiting for a few years, and finally had the opportunity. It exceeded our expectations, with some of the best views we have had, excellent walking, and beautiful whitewashed villages. We would definitely recommend a trip here. A word of advice though ensure you take maps and walking books with you as none are available when you are there, and many paths were not signed. Various walks are shut over the summer months, and at other times of the year they require permits-like this one. We had left our base near Malaga and driven 2 hours to stay for 5 nights at the village of Grazalema. This is a beautiful ancient well kept village. It was quiet in October when we stayed, but at weekends it would have been very busy.
This half day walk is different from the other walks in the area in that it descends 300m into a narrow gorge, home to many Griffon Vultures. It is extremely steep with steps cut into the rock and hand rails, before reaching a large cavern, caused by the river when in full torrent. Make sure you have a permit-see later.
We left Grazalema where we were staying, arriving at the empty car park on the Grazalema to Zahara road at 9.45am, armed with our permit. There is an information board, saying 2.5km, 2 hours, high difficulty walk and a large sign saying that it is a restricted area and permission must be gained from the Regional Environment Ministry, no dogs or bikes-these signs can't be missed.
We went through the gate, with another sign, along the path leading to a fountain, and something I have never seen before-a sheep drinking the water. After ten minutes, there is a sign to the Mirador, which is found 200m to the left. This is a stone construction with views all the way down the valley, and a notice board about the vultures and the valley. Slightly disappointing for us, that there were no vultures to be seen, but there was plenty of green vegetation, and the sun shining on the rocks across the valley. We returned to the main track going through vegetation and passing two broken corrals. There is a sign saying "quiet" due to nesting birds, plenty of insects, and great views back to the mountains.
The path now descends steeply down steps cut out of the rock, with railings in places. Look out for caves in the valley wall opposite, and trees precariously growing out of the rocky ledges. At 11.15am we reached the base of the gorge, and a warning sign in Spanish about diverse risks. It is unclear here which way to go. But cross straight over to the other side of the dried up river bed, and there is a sign saying Ermita De Garganta Verde (The Chapel of the green gorge) 250m, and the way we had come to the Mirador 3km.The path then hugs the left hand side of the river bed, rounding a corner to where the gorge narrows. We were wondering what the smell was when we spotted a dead vulture lying in the middle of the stream bed, which we carefully avoided. We arrived at a huge chasm carved out by water, (the Chapel) with lovely shades of rocks and another information board. High above us the sun streamed down and we could see 1000's of insects, and hastily put on some insect repellent. There were signs of recent rock falls- we were about 300m down-and would not want to be caught in one of those!! We continued round the corner, and stopped before some large boulders that would need to be clambered over in order to go any further. See if you can touch both sides of the chasm at once. We were joined by 4 other people.
We turned round, and 15 minutes later found the path back up. The steps were much harder going up than coming down and after a while being in the sunshine too. It took us an hour to return to the Mirador overlooking the valley, but alas still no raptors. We arrived back at the car park at 1.15pm.
At the end of the walk we could not believe that the park ranger was waiting for walkers, to check permits. We had seen 6 other people all morning. We were so happy that we had made the effort to drive to collect the permit, we don't know the penalty for non-compliance. We do feel that there must be a much better way to administer it. Maybe get one on-line, then display it in the car window would seem the best idea, which would save an hour's car journey for us and the ranger's time.
This walk was shut from June 1st until October15th due to fire risk, after that date a permit is required. We had driven especially the day before 30 minutes each way to the tourist office in El Bosque to collect the permit. They are free, with only 15 are issued for each day, but take passport details with you. The office has limited opening hours. We tried to get one on-line, but after applying was told we had to give 14 days' notice, which we had not done. As we were there on October 16th we naively expected overgrown paths etc, strangely the path actually looked like 100's of people had walked it all summer, or maybe just the park rangers.
This was a lovely walk, but not one of my favourites. I found the bottom of the gorge claustrophobic, and with signs of recent rock falls onto the valley floor, quite scary. It was hard work going back up all the steps in the beating sun. I was pleased we had done this walk, but unlike others that we have done, don't think I would do it again.
Disappointingly we waited at the observation point twice to see the vultures that live here, but none appeared. But we had seen plenty of them in the previous two days. We concluded that maybe they just nest here, and leave in the mornings for other parts.
Don't visit the gorge after heavy rain, as there is a danger of rock falls, landslips and the river in torrent.
Distance 4 miles ( 6.4km)
Duration of Walk 3 Hours 45 mins
Average Pace 56 Min/Mile
Steps 18392
Elevation Gained 928 feet (282m)
Information/Advice
Take a phone, sun hats, sun tan lotion and food and water. It can be chilly in the bottom of the gorge, so take a fleece. Take insect repellent, as there were 1,000s of insects at the bottom of the gorge.
Wear boots, the only way to go, we wear Lowa boots, originally designed in Germany, and very popular with walkers there. Having worn out previous pairs, with an excess of 1,000 miles walked in them, we are now on our third pairs. They are available from Lowa on-line, in Decathlon, and probably other places too.
We always wear shorts, but on our first day in the area we were extremely scratched by all the undergrowth. We found it too hot to wear the walking trousers we had taken, but a pair of gaiters would have helped, just wearing them when leg protection was necessary. After walking through long grass or undergrowth we always check our legs for ticks-and carry a tick card to remove them just in case.
A word of advice though ensure you take maps and walking books with you. This walk was the only one that we went on in the area that was relatively easy to follow.
The problem with rocky terrain is that it would be fairly easy to fall and damage something. I imagine that there is no mountain rescue service-the civil guard may come out-or may charge. So take care.
We try and use public transport when in Spain, being cheap and plentiful, or walk. But this area is fairly inaccessible by public transport, so we had hired a car in advance.
This area of Southern Spain is accessible from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching the reliable, cheap public transport.
Websites used
https://www.lowa.co.uk/
https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2018/apr/02/sierra-de-grazalema-natural-park-ronda-andalucia-spain-walks-villages article
www.ayto-elbosque.es tourist office
http://www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente/servtc5/ventana/mostrarFicha.do?idEquipamiento=19957&lg=EN tourist office
www.booking.com Hosperderia y Aptos Casa de las Piedras - we booked an apartment, which was handy to make sandwiches, but we ate breakfast and dinner in local restaurants - being such good value.
Cafeteria Rumores-Grazalema Breakfast
Bar la Posadilla-Grazalema Dinner a couple of nights (very nice, we would not advise the mixed tapas though)
Restaurant Meson el Simancon-Grazalema This was superb value for money, with a set menu for €14 each
Resources Used
Walking the Mountains of Ronda and Grazalema Walk 29, The Garganta Verde by Guy Hunter-Davies. Cicerone press. This series can be bought in England
Sierra De Grazalema Map, purchased previously in Ronda
Day 6 - La Torrecilla, near Ronda, Andalucía, Spain
La Torrecilla (meaning small tower) is the highest mountain in Western Andalucía at 1919m, and has outstanding views. It is very popular being found half way between Marbella and Ronda. Leave early, as it a fairly long walk, of 16km and ascent of 840m.
After spending five days walking near Grazalema, we had stayed near Ronda the night before, leaving in the dark, before eating a large breakfast of coffee and toast at Rincon Taurino Garage Agio on the A397 San Pedro road. We always call into cafes in Spain, the ones off the beaten track are usually fascinating. This one was no exception with large groups of men looking like they were going hunting, drinking something like schnapps and walls covered in bull fighting pictures.
Our starting point the car park at Area Recreativa de los Quejigales is sign posted off the main road near the cafe. The wide gravel road passes a couple of small car parks, then after about 20 minutes or 6.7km a barrier on the road is reached at the entrance to the Sierra National Park. Between June and mid-October the barrier blocks vehicle access adding an extra 2.8km to and from the start point. We were lucky as it was October 15th, and the barrier was open. Ten minutes later we arrived at our large free car park. By 9am there were already ten cars in the car park with more arriving all the time.
We took the opposite exit out of the car park from where we had arrived, walking up the road for about 200m, before turning right over the wooden bridge passing an information board, and following marker signs through the fir trees. This is a relatively easy and beautiful path, with green and white marker posts to follow. The mountains of Grazalema where we had been all week, can be glimpsed through gaps in the trees, which provide some lovely shade.
After an hour we reached the top of the ridge, Puerto de Los Pilones 1750m, turning left to join a track towards the antennas, with views to Ronda, Grazalema, and south to the Mediterranean with hazy views on the horizon. Turning right before the antennas the path follows more green and white posts. The national park team have been doing a lot of work replanting trees and placing bags of stones to prevent erosion. After a further 20 minutes walking, spot the large ice hollow to left of path with a rail round. There are numerous ice pits in the area, winter snows were trampled underfoot and covered with earth and branches to prevent melting. The blocks of ice were then wrapped in sacking and carried on mules to major towns in the area. Interestingly there was frost on the ground here in the shade, so obviously a good spot for ice making.
Around the corner from the ice cave the path splits. If you decide not to walk up La Torrecilla a left turn can be taken here to return to the car park a different way. We went right following more signs. It was a lovely path, and always good to see lots of people out walking too, this being a Saturday. Two hours after leaving the car we rounded a corner to Pilar de Tolox, which is a trough carved out of blocks of limestone, containing a fountain, with a sign saying non-drinking water. The trough is said to date back to Roman times, when flocks of animals were moved to summer pastures. Two modern shrines have been placed in the caves here. This makes a popular location to stop before the final ascent is made. Some people stayed here instead of going to the top.
The hardest part of the day now starts. The path zigzags all the way to the top, with markers to follow. But the whole side of the mountain seems to be a path. Thirty-five minutes after the fountain we were very happy to reach the top of La Torrecilla (1919m). There is a plaque and a shrine with prayer flags. Now we know why this is such a popular walk with tremendous views in all directions. We stayed at the top for at least an hour just enjoying the huge expanse all around us with views to the peaks of Grazalema already summated this week, and our next outing La Maroma beyond Malaga, as well as many whitewashed villages, the coast, La Concha etc. On a clearer day Gibraltar and the coast of Morocco could be seen. It was a warm day, but an extra layer was needed at the top due to the wind blowing.
We left the top at 1.15pm with more people arriving all the time, creating a bit of a holiday atmosphere. It was fairly difficult going down the zigzags as the path is very steep, so we used sticks for balance (something we always take with us, but very rarely use). Arriving back at the fountain at 1.50pm, we then continued back to the split in the path at 3pm. We went left back to the ice cave, then took the path to the right of it, going up the rocks to a trig point, turning right down a slightly overgrown path with cairns, through the trees. Take some time to admire the Spanish Firs and Portuguese Oaks, some are hundreds of years old, reaching way up to the sky, some are dead, giving atmosphere. It would be spooky here at dusk. The forests here were used for hundreds of years for ship-building and charcoal burning. After an hour of walking we were treated to views to the west and entered a clearing. Here the path did not seem to exist, but we headed straight ahead cutting across the grass towards a rough road at an erosion barrier. Following the road we descended through the trees past the wooden bridge and arrived back in the car park at 4.40pm.
We really enjoyed this walk, none of it was too hard. We took our time, enjoying the views, chatting to fellow walkers and eating our picnic. We would definitely walk this mountain again, and may go back down the way we had come up another time. Whilst in Spain check out the Empanadas, Spain's walking version of pork pies.
Distance 10.41 miles (16.7km)
Duration of Walk 7 Hours 45 Mins
Average Pace 45 Min/Mile
Steps 40370
Elevation Gained 2762 feet (841m)
Information/Advice
Take a phone and charger, sun hats, sun tan lotion and some food and water as after leaving the start there is nowhere to replenish supplies. It can also be chilly on the top, especially if windy or the clouds roll in, so take a wind proof jacket and woolly hat. I would advise taking a compass too in case you lose your way, insect spray, and maybe a Spanish phrase book.
Wear boots, the only way to go, we wear Lowa boots, originally designed in Germany, and very popular with walkers there. Having worn out previous pairs, with an excess of 1,000 miles walked in them, we are now on our third pairs. They are available from Lowa on-line, in Decathlon, and probably other places too.
What we noticed on this walk was the Spanish all seemed to wear the equivalent of jogging kits with trainers, carrying very small pouches with just some sports drink, compared to us wearing big boots and carrying large rucksacks-we felt like walkers in the Alps from the 1950s and felt very out of place. I think we are used to the variables of the English weather ,so are used to taking all kit with us.
A word of advice though ensure you take maps and walking books with you, as none in English seem to be are available in Spain.
The problem with rocky terrain is that it would be fairly easy to fall, and damage something, and there is little mobile phone signal. I imagine that there is no mountain rescue service-the civil guard may come out-or may charge. So take care.
Being located in southern Spain, I would advise not doing this walk in the summer months as it would be far too hot, and would require carrying too much water.
Check the weather forecast before setting off, as it would be a shame to walk all this way and have no view.
Go when the barrier is open like we did for a shorter walk. The barrier seems to be shut between June 1st and mid-October.
We try and use public transport when in Spain, being cheap and plentiful, or walk. But this area is fairly inaccessible by public transport, so we had hired a car in advance.
This area of Southern Spain can be reached from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching the reliable, cheap public transport.
Websites used
https://www.lowa.co.uk/
www.bookings Hotel Posada de Ronda where we stayed the night before
http://www.parauta.es/11714/pension-hostal-el-rincon-taurino breakfast
Resources Used
Walking the Mountains of Ronda and Grazalema Walk 5 La Torrecilla Circuit by Guy Hunter-Davies. Cicerone press. This series can be bought in England