The Camino Mozárabe

The Camino Mozárabe - Stage 1 - Malaga to Almogia

Having previously walked 2 Caminos across Spain, (The Camino Frances and the Norte) we were interested when we heard that a Camino covers the 745miles/1200km from Malaga to Santiago de Compostella, in Galicia. Having searched in Malaga previously for information on the walk and not found any, we had printed out the details of the various stages from Malaga to Antequera, whilst we were in England. The first days' walk initially heads in an easterly direction from Malaga out of the city, before heading north to Almogia.

We left our accommodation in Torremolinos early at 7am to catch the bus to Malaga, with our rucksacks packed for a long distance trip. Arriving in Malaga at 8am, we walked to the start of the Camino Mozarab at Santiago's Church on Granada street. The church was closed, and there was nowhere to collect our stamp or Camino certificate from. (see later). We photographed the notice board with a map on, which shows the route through Malaga. We left at 8.25am following the route (signed-posted with shells or yellow arrows) left past the Picasso Museum, passing the church of San Agustin to the Cathedral with another map outside, then followed the Plaza de La Constitucion, Compania and Puerto Neuva streets, (from the Cathedral there were no more signs) until we reached La Aurora bridge with a shell on the left hand side post, going over a wide dried up river bed.

We continued for 4 miles/7km along Marmoles, Martinez Maldonado, Carlos Haya and Lope de Vega streets. Stopping along the way for breakfast at Mason el Martinette cafe, (9.15am) it was very good value at €5 for 2 coffees and 2 toasts with tomato-our normal breakfast in Spain. Inside the bar is an interesting collection of hanging hams. We spotted the first yellow arrows seen for a while on Edificio altos de Teatinos. More yellow arrows appeared, then at the top of Calle Lopa de Rueda (4 miles/6km 10.20am) was a stone sign. After 5.5 miles/9km at 10.50am we came to a large notice board for Stage One from Malaga to Almogia, saying 9miles/14.3 km along the GR245. We were delighted to have now picked up the signs, as they were missing through a large part of Malaga-maybe they weren't allowed to be up, or maybe the walk could start from here to save the urban walk. But we were happy to have started from the Church in the middle of Malaga, feeling it is the correct start.

We turned left past Europa School (11.05am), following the signs through a housing estate, under a motorway bridge, before turning right following Camino and GR 245 signs, onto a tarmac road, through a beautiful white arch, (beside a board for the GR248 Puerto La Torre), then turning left down the main road. A short distance later we were happy to arrive at Jose Carlos restaurant in La junta de los Caminos (6.5miles/10.5km), ordering more coffee and toast (12pm), leaving at 12.15pm with the day warming up nicely.

Turning right out of the bar, walking along the road for 400m, then we headed left at a sign, down a road between a large panadera and junta building. After following the road for a little while, the path goes along a dried up riverbed, over a bridge, then left down a dirt track(12.50pm), passing the estate of Hacienda los Villares (1pm), with a beautiful tiled frieze of horses. The path here is well signed-which was fortunate as for the next few hours we saw no people. There is little shade, the path is dry and dusty and it had become very hot. However, the views all around made the journey worth the effort, with fabulous views to the mountains beyond Torremolinos, to the sea and the airport valley. We could hear bells on goats in the distance too.

Passing through the village of Nunez we were met by scary loud dogs, which were fortunately behind fences. (11.5 miles/18.5km 2.45pm) The path continues to undulate across large dusty fields, again with little shade. This was the end of October in Southern Spain and still very hot. We were happy we weren't walking in the Summer heat. Continuing round the corner our destination-the town of Almogia appeared (3.30pm), with great views of mountains all around. We followed another track, then turned right (3.55pm) happy to see a sign-Almogia 0.7 km.

Fifteen minutes later we were sitting in Cafe bar Central in a beautiful square by the town hall, happy to be in some shade at last. But the walk was not over!! After a drink we continued following more Camino signs. Almogia is beautiful with white washed buildings located on a hillside, with steep streets and lots of steps!! At the top we continued past the Auberge, which looked shut (but had information outside on how to book) to our destination of La Posada Almogia, happy to arrive as it had been a long day. The hotel was very quiet, and would normally be serving food and drinks. It was good value at 45€ for an en-suite room, the friendly owner apologised for the bar being shut-we were just happy to have found somewhere to stay.

We went to Bar el Pelon for dinner. There was no menu, so we just asked for some meat (in Spanish). A large portion of stew, chips and bread arrived. Then unexpectedly a large portion of sizzling garlic prawns. We wondered what the bill would be, but it was a reasonable price of 27€ for the food, a beer, a coffee and a fizzy water. It was idyllic, with the sun setting over the Mediterranean in the far distance, making the long day worthwhile.

Distance 16 miles (26km)

Duration of Walk 8 Hours 30 minutes including breaks

Elevation Gained 2481 feet (756m)

The Camino Mozárabe - Stage 2 - Almogia to Villanueva de la Concepción

This is a relatively easy day of 11.5miles/19km, but was made harder in the heat with little shade, and with no cafe/bars along the way. The route is well-signed posted mainly along tracks through wide open undulating countryside, with great views. Villanueva soon comes into view with the Sierra del Torcal behind it.

After the heat of the previous day, we wanted to make an early start, but somehow this did not really materialise. We had our customary breakfast of coffee and toast at Cafe Bar el Coco. The Mediterranean diet did not seem to be happening here-the outside area was very busy with local men drinking brandy and coffee whilst smoking. I wondered where all the ladies were!! The decorations inside were amazing, complete with various animals' heads displayed on the walls. We went to the nearby Dia supermarket (opens at 8.30am) and purchased empanada, fruit, drinks, croissants etc, before leaving at 9am. It was a cold morning probably due to the altitude we were at, and we were glad to have our hats, gloves, and coats on, but ready for the heat of the day later, we wore shorts.

From Dia supermarket, we re-traced our steps towards our hostel, but just before we reached it, turned right at the Camino signs. It was a cold but beautiful morning, and the air was very fresh. We followed the track, which runs behind new houses, then steeply descends to a lovely house with pool with great views. What a fabulous location for a swim! Back up a track, we turned right by a brick store, along a farmers' track, with another sign Almogia 4.7km, Villanueva 14.5km (10.00am). We walked through the dusty scrub land with olive trees and tracks leading to isolated houses, again we met no-one either walking, farming or driving. The views back to the sea and all around were excellent.

Rounding the corner we came to an information board for Mirador de Puerto Pacheco, with our destination situated on a hillside far in the distance. It is always reassuring to see where we are going, however far it seemed. We went down another path, passing a little well, a water trough covered in flies, and a dried up river bed.

The weather had really warmed up since the morning, and we ate our lunch under a large tree (12pm). Leaving at 12.20pm, we turned right along the road, with a sign Villaneuva 8.9km, Almogia 10.3 km, then across another dried up river just before crossing the main road A-7075 to Villanueva with a sign Attention Peligro. A helpful local farmer appeared and took great lengths to kindly tell us the way in Spanish, without being asked! Perhaps he just wanted a chat. The road option could always be taken at this point. The path goes steadily up a small hill passing a few houses. We stopped on top of the hill for a snack (9.5 miles 2pm), surrounded by big empty ploughed fields with Villanueva still looking far away. We continued through a farm with a barn full of hay, and hens and goats running around. Then returned to the main road-mind the cars (we did seem to have come round in a big semi-circle) turning right along the road (2.25pm), going over an old bridge, passing some buildings, then just before the road turns left, there is a path to the right signed 2.4km to Villanueva. The track passes a sewage works and is lined by pretty trees. At the junction with another road, we went left into the town, passing unoccupied new homes. Happy to

have arrived, we went to Bar Pascual in the main square which was very lively with locals (3.20pm).

We had had another great day, easier than the previous one with less elevation and it was 2 miles shorter. After a drink we checked into Apartamentos Villa Torcal, which we had booked on Bookings.com. It was a lovely big apartment, (45€ a night for 2), as a bonus the building has a rooftop terrace with great views. We went to Restaurant Oasis nearby for drinks and tapas, there was not a price list, but it was really good value (10€ for drinks and tapas). Unfortunately this being Spain, main meals were not served till 8pm.

If you had time to spare in Villanueva, Torcal National Park visitor centre and walks round the strangely shaped rock formations are accessible by car or taxi. I had assumed wrongly that the Camino would go past some of these interesting rock formations-but as it is a National Park there is limited access.

Distance 13 miles (21km)

Duration of Walk 7 Hours 30 minutes including breaks

Elevation Gained 1956 feet (596m)

Useful Websites

https://restaurantguru.com/KOKCO-Madrid Cafe Bar el Coco Breakfast

https://hotelandplace.com/hotel/apartamentos-villa-torcal Apartment

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g1903461-d8796867-Reviews-Bar_Oasis-Villanueva_de_la_Concepcion_Province_of_Malaga_Andalucia.html Bar Oasis. Tapas and breakfast

http://www.torcaldeantequera.com/en/information/how-to-visit-the-torcal-de-antequera/ Torcal national park

 

The Camino Mozárabe - Stage 3 - Villanueva de la Concepción to Antequera

This is a fabulous walk of 9miles/15km, with 1300feet/400m of ascent. It follows an easy route alongside the Torcal mountainside, to the Puerto de La Escaleruela, with sublime views to Antequera and the surrounding countryside. It is definitely more interesting than the previous day. We were planning to take a look round the historic town of Antequera before returning by bus to Malaga.

We packed up early, and returned to the Oasis Restaurant for Breakfast, again having coffee, toast with tomatoes and homemade olive oil. We were leaving when the owner kindly gave us a free portion of churros-in general too greasy for me but very popular in Spain, we then ordered more coffee too. We went to the handy Dia supermarket for water and food. The walk is signed off the main road near Dia, and heads up a steep street to a notice board with details of Stage 3. There was a fabulous sun rise and the mountains looked very appealing. We had spent too long eating breakfast, not leaving until 8.45am, but we made good time along the tarmac road. After one mile it turns into a rough track, passing a large house with beautiful gardens and lots of dogs. Whilst walking parallel to the limestone cliffs to our right, we passed cultivated fields and olive trees with beautiful views of mountains and the sea. We took care when meeting a farmer who came towards us along the path with a very large herd of goats/sheep and a few dogs. Obviously they have right of way. In hindsight I think they distracted us so much that we lost the path. We continued for a while past a white-washed farmhouse, and down into some fields before we realised.that (3.4miles). We looked for the path, but could not see it, and didn't wish to re-trace our steps. Instead we followed the side of a ploughed field, turned right up a dried-up stream bed, before we climbed out of it onto a wide track by a house. Lo and behold there was a yellow arrow, we were very pleased to be back on track, and hopefully would remain so. (10.45am 4 miles).

We followed the signs along a smaller track to the right, then through a roped gate following red and white signs, but no yellow ones. Arriving at Puerto de La Escaleruela (5 miles), we stopped to admire the tremendous views and stopped to eat our empanada. The puerto is a popular destination for a walk from Antequera, and there were a few people around. We followed the ancient steep cobbled path downwards, (signed 4.1km to Antequera), then along a path, passing fields. Look for the mountain to the right which looks like a lying down head. We turned right down a main road, then left down the A343, then right into Antequera with great views of the Alcazaba. Passing a church to the left we stopped for tapas and drinks at Bar la Socorrilla. (12.40pm)

Antequera is a really interesting town, with both Roman and Moorish remains and we were pleased we had arrived in time to enjoy it. We visited the Alcazaba (castle)-definitely worth the €6 charge, with plenty of information boards, old walls and towers to climb, gardens and views over the Roman ruins. We walked through the town to check out where Stage 4 of the walk would start from for another time - near to Santiago's Church in Santiago's Square.

Continuing past the church for another ten minutes, we arrived just outside town at the Dolmens which are thought to be burial chambers of tribal leaders and date from around 2,500 BC. We did a quick tour of the 2 chambers, but didn't have time for the visitor centre. After a thirty minute walk back into the town, we arrived at the bus station in time to catch the 5.30pm bus to Malaga. We were pleased we had booked tickets on-line at lunch time, as the bus was busy. Our rucksacks were stored in the luggage compartment underneath.

Distance 10 miles (16km)

Duration of Walk 5 Hours 45 minutes including breaks

Elevation Gained 1776 feet (510m)

https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g315910-d10456732-Reviews-La_Socorrilla-Antequera_Costa_del_Sol_Province_of_Malaga_Andalucia.html Lunch

 

The Camino Mozárabe - Stage 4 - Antequera to Villanueva de Algaidas

 

We had previously walked the first 3 stages of the Camino Mozarabe from Malaga to Antequera, before returning to Malaga by bus in November 2022. We were now returning to Antequera to continue the walk, hoping to arrive at the beautiful Cathedral in Cordoba 6 days later. We had booked most of the accommodation 4 weeks in advance on Bookings.com and one on a direct phone call (more later).

Today’s walk is from Antequera to Villanueva de Algaidas, a distance of 16 miles/24 km with an elevation of 450m. We caught the 7.45am Alsa bus from Central Malaga €7 each having booked it on-line in advance. We arrived at the bus station in Antequera at 8.45am, walking through the town for 0.5 mile to the start at the Church of Santiago. We called into Cafe Machua next door, €5.60 for 2 toasts and coffees

Leaving the café at 9.30am, we followed the arrows down the side of the church, along Belen Street, passing the Gate of Granada. We took photos of information boards about the walk, with lovely views over the town. Be careful to turn left just before the Repsol garage, passing the cemetery, following the shells on the floor, over the roundabout, then left down a lane out of the town. There is a marker post of 1,174km to Santiago, one of many we would see along the way. We passed through pretty groves of olive trees, and ploughed fields, crossing a small road (10.15am). At 10.50am we went over a small river, then under the motorway. (4.20 miles covered).

The mostly obvious, and in parts cobbled, track heads slightly uphill for 3km to Cartaojal, (7.8 miles, 3 hours, 147m ascent). There are views back to the Torcal hills, Antequera and the Pena de Los Enamorados, (lovers rock) which looks like a face of a person lying down. Arriving in the small town of Cartaojal, we stopped at 12.30am at Casa Caro bar lucky to find it open. We ate more tomatoes on toast and coffee (€5.00), not wishing to wait until 1pm for the main menu to be served.

Cartaojal is a quiet town, based on agriculture with a population of 1200, many of whom were out and about. The streets are lined with beautiful orange trees, which were in every town that we visited, apparently to provide shade in the streets. The oranges are bitter and are collected and made into marmalade.

Leaving the cafe at 1pm, we continued to the end of the town, then turned right up a road. We passed large villas, with views to olive groves and acres of new solar panels following the signposted road, then along a red soil track, again going gradually uphill. After 12 miles (2.40pm), we reached the top of a pass, passing wind turbines with great views ahead to mountains on the horizon.

To the left are some ruined houses, and to the right there is a cement factory. There are 2 large rock pillars which have been described as being Roman milestones. However, we were not quite convinced that we had found them and thought a plaque could have been helpful.

We arrived in Villanueva de Algaidas at 4.20pm, the accommodation that we had phoned in advance was shut-with no notification as to whether it would open, we phoned them and received no answer. We were fortunate that Hostel Algaidas (bookings.com) opened just for us, and we were very pleased to arrive before more rain came in. There are a couple of supermarkets in the town, where we bought some food for the next day. We ate chicken and chips at Kebab Turco, as none of the bars was serving food until after 8pm.

It was a cold January day, but a lovely day of walking, with great views on well signed paths, quiet roads following the GR245, across wide open fields, olive groves, both old and new. It was nice to have a lunch stop halfway in Cartaojal. The path was well signed with yellow arrows, and red and white signs. We were looking forward to another great day. The path was very quiet-a complete contrast to bustling Malaga with the Christmas light show, which we had visited the previous night.

On our previous trip to Antequera we had visited churches, the castle and surrounds, and the megalithic monument site. All of which we really enjoyed.

Distance 16 miles (26 km)

Duration of Walk 7 Hours 35 minutes including breaks

Elevation Gained 1500 feet (457m)

Pace 28 min a mile

Websites used https://www.facebook.com/people/Bar-Machuca/100057594063613/ breakfast in Antequera https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pe%C3%B1a_de_los_Enamorados Lovers Rock https://turismo.antequera.es/restaurants/restaurante-casa-caro/ lunch in Cartaojal booking.com Villanueva de Algaidas

 

The Camino Mozárabe - Stage 5 - Villanueva de Algaidas to Lucena

We were up early as the walk from Villanueva de Algaidas to Lucena involves 25 miles/40 km of walking with 3,000 feet/960m of elevation. Leaving where we were staying at Hostel Algaidas at 7am, we called into Cafe Zaidin for an early breakfast, leaving at 7.45am. We were amazed at the number of bars open early with men drinking spirits and coffee, we were very lucky to find one selling toast-it was the 4th one we tried. The heavy rain from the previous night had fortunately cleared, leaving only a light drizzle. It was a cold dark January day as we headed north down the main street passing an Albergue, to the end of town, then taking a well-signed path to the right, using our torches to see by. The path goes down past a ruined monastery with information boards, across a bridge (8.10am), then steeply up to La Atalaya village. There is a lovely picture from a bygone age, with all the ladies washing clothes in the river, which would not be possible now in the current drought stricken dried-up river. Leaving the town at 8.30am we turned right at a sign, passing many olive groves with views back to the hills we had crossed the previous day. The mist came down, and an enormous hail storm then ensued. We were lucky to have umbrellas with us, as there is no shelter under an olive tree!!, and we would have been drenched. We reached a view point at 9.30am (4 miles/6.5km, 316m ascent in 2 hours), with a superb board showing us what the vista should have been. We were lucky though, at least the hail had stopped. Going down the hill to a pretty hamlet of El Cedron, with beautiful cobbles and a recently restored community oven. Next La Moheda was reached with a former public fountain by the path. Both hamlets deserve a look round. The hillsides here used to be covered in Holm Oak trees, but most have been cut down so cereals and olives can be grown. We arrived at the very pretty town of Cuevas Bajas at 10.30am, eating and drying out at the fascinating Bar Cayetano. (6.5 miles/10.5km 3 hours, 321m ascent,). Reluctantly leaving at 11.15am, we were soon on the flood plain of the Genil river, and entered the province of Cordoba, fording a small stream blocking the path, with more great views. We had covered 11 miles/18km, with 517m ascent in 5 hours, when we arrived in Encinas Reales, and called into Bar Lucas for some welcome tapas. Realising it was another 20km to our destination, we thought about leaving the Camino route and taking the shorter route along the old road, which runs close to the motorway. However, we decided that the Camino route would be more interesting. We left at 1.10pm, going up a steep hill passing a factory, down to a motorway underpass, then turning left along a track. At 2.5km/1.5 miles from the town we reached a ford across the river. After all the heavy rain, what would have been a small trickle of water, was now a fast-flowing river. We debated what to do next, whether to turn round and head back into town, then walk along the road or take off

our boots and wade through the water. We decided that we would be better off leaving our boots on and wading through the water. We went one at a time, using a walking stick each, to assess the route. It was slippery, and the river had quite a current running, we definitely did not want to fall in and especially as there was a weir to our left. Fortunately, we both made it across, very lucky that the water was about 0.5cm below the tops of our waterproof boots, I don’t think they would ever have dried if they had got wet inside.

After another 30 mins we turned left by an arrow, fording a much smaller river. With 9miles/15km to go we stopped at a picnic bench, then followed the track once more. We arrived at Para Plenteous at 2 45pm, which may be a cycle center, with room for lots of development. (15 miles/24km 621m ascent). We turned right for Lucena, passing through more pretty countryside and some houses and came to a handy picnic bench. We reached the top of a slope with a factory on right. (19 miles 30.5km, 9 hours, 876m ascent), going under a motorway (20.5 miles 9.3 hours 904m), then passing through an endless industrial estate.

After a few more miles, we arrived in Lucena, walking down the very pretty pedestrianised San Pedro Street, passing churches, the town hall, lovely buildings and a square. We arrived at Hotel Al-Yussana at 6.20pm, after an 11-hour walk. It was 3 Kings Day in Spain (6th January), and all the town was out to see the parade. Also, it was the last day of Christmas lights. Most restaurants were either shut or very busy. We went to Pizza Dana for dinner, which was very close to our hotel. We really enjoyed the day and loved the challenge of walking in a hail storm, and fording a river. The countryside is beautiful, the 3 cafes we went in were lovely. Again, we saw no other walkers, or anyone in the countryside.

Distance 24 miles (38.5 km)

Duration of Walk 10 Hours 35 minutes including breaks

Elevation Gained 3215 feet (980m)

Average pace 26 min a mile

Information/Advice

As it was a bank holiday the next day all the supermarkets shut early. In hindsight, we would have bought some food for the evening to eat in our hotel room, and some for the next day. We did not realise how busy or shut all the restaurants would be.

We could have broken the day down into 2 shorter stages by staying at Cuevas Bajas or Encinas Reales.

Websites

Booking.com Hotel Al-Yussana

 

The Camino Mozárabe - Stage Six - Lucena to Dona Mencia

Instead of walking along undulating paths, the walk from Lucena to Dona Mencia involves walking 17 miles along a disused railway line from Lucena station via Cabra to Dona Mencia station. We were looking forward to the railway interpretation museum at Cabra. We left our hotel Al-Yussana at 7.45am, calling into Bar Los Velones found en-route next door to a Repsol garage for breakfast. As usual, only frequented by men, drinking coffee and spirits. We arrived at the old station at 8.45am, 1.2 miles 17m of ascent from our hotel. There is a restaurant at the old station, which was just opening up when we arrived. Initially, the walk passes a lot of industrial units, having views to Lucena, with a clearing mist, before emerging into the open countryside with olive trees. It was a single-track railway with a slight incline all the way, we met a few cyclists and joggers all dressed up against the winter cold, but no other walkers. We passed olive trees and houses on the left, with a mist over the fields, and the sounds of dogs and cockerels. At 10.30am 6.5 miles 65m ascent, we crossed over a main road. From the next viaduct we were treated to views of Cabra, then we passed a large Amphitheatre to the left, partially hidden in the trees. 100m later there is an information board with details of a circular walk that could be done into Cabra along Fuente del Rio, which we opted not to do. We carried on to the disused station, passing an outdoor gym, a small climbing wall, picnic benches, and 2 disused trains. (8.5 miles, 98m ascent, 3 hours 30min). Unfortunately, the museum, cafe, and toilets were all closed. We left the station, turned left, then right for 8 minutes to Vetusto cafe lucky to find it open on a bank holiday. The food was good value, and well presented. We walked back to the station, and re-commenced our walk at 12.50pm. It had been a very quiet day so far. The path goes over embankments and through cuttings then we arrived at an unlit tunnel, but only being 139m long we did not need torches. We stopped at a closed bike information centre, and sat at a picnic bench, with far reaching views. (16 miles 246m 7 hour 45 mins). We arrived at Dona Mencia station with bike hire, and a camper van site at 4.15pm. We called into Meson Restaurante La Cantina, disappointed to find that no food would be served until 9pm.

Distance 17.5 miles (28 km)

Duration of Walk 8 hours 20 minutes including breaks

Elevation Gained 835 feet (255m)

Average pace 28 minutes per mile

Information/Advice

We enjoyed the day, but found parts of it a bit monotonous along the old railway track. The afternoon section was more interesting than the morning with far reaching views across the olive groves. It was a Spanish Bank Holiday, but we were surprised to see so few people out. We still have not seen anyone with a rucksack.

We were very disappointed to find the train museum and restaurant in Cabra shut, with no opening times listed at all. There are 2 old trains to look at, it is a shame the information boards have been vandalised. In the evening we walked all around the town of Dona Mencia, it was looking pretty with Christmas decorations still up, and the floodlit castle. We ate a delicious dinner in our hotel, Mencia Subbetica. All other restaurants were not serving till after 9pm and shops were closed. The former railway line of Via Verde del Aceite, ran from Jaen to Malaga, transporting olives and minerals, opening in 1893 and closing in 1984. Websites used

Booking.com Mencia Subbetica Hotel https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/V%C3%ADa_verde_del_Aceite Train line

 

The Camino Mozárabe - Stage 7 - Dona Mencia to Castro del Rio

Today's walk consists of 19 miles from Dona Mencia to Castro del Rio via Baena, we were hoping it would be more interesting than the previous day. We were again up early, leaving Hotel Mencia Subbetica in the cold and dark at 7.45am, then walking through Dona Mencia, having checked out the route the previous night. We managed to find breakfast at La Cueva do Pollo, leaving the cafe at 8.15am, before heading up the steep Calle Jaen in the direction of Baena. Once out of town, we had great views back over the town, with plenty of signs. At 8.45am we reached the top of the hill, 150m ascent, 30 mins from the bar. For a Sunday morning, there were quite a few farmers out, harvesting some of the olives. We passed the small village of El -Zambudio (4.7 miles, 230m 2 hours 20mins), then the track heads round the corner, with views to Baena and a factory straight ahead. The best views were before this point. The sun was now burning through the mist. After the 1,090km marker post, we turned right onto the main road, (10.25am), then after 5 mins, turned left off the road along a track. We arrived at a very pretty plaza with fountains and information boards, going over a bridge, then up a steep hill, following the arrows into Baena. (6.5 miles, 276m ascent 3.5 hours,). We assumed that the route would go to the top of the town, and in hindsight were disappointed not to go to Constitution Square. The path goes to the right-hand side of the town instead.

The Camino from Granada/Almeria meets our route from Malaga at Plaza de Espana and Llano del Rincon. We thought there would be a special marker, but we didn't see one, but there is a roundabout with a nice statue of Don Joaquin. We stopped at Manana Cafe, for more toast, tomato and cheese, leaving at 11.45am. We were lucky to find bakery Sandra open on a Sunday morning. We lost the signs, but found them again at the Cooperative of Jesus Nazareno, which is next to a roundabout with 4 statues and sign 1,067km to Santiago (12.15pm). We turned left, heading up a busy road, after 20 minutes coming to a sign on the right to Canete de Las Torres, along the A3125. We were more than happy to follow this track, with more great views, until we joined a road with a bridge over the Guadajoz River (10.5 miles 6 hours 10 mins, 400m ascent). There is a very small old bridge to the left. At the crossroads, there is a building that used to be a restaurant-shame it isn't now. Just ahead are the Caves of Cueva del Yeso, and some archaeological remains, which were shut when we were there. We turned left down another road, (2.30pm) which follows the river for 12km, passing a nice picnic site. The road seemed endless, the day had really warmed up,

we saw 2 cars in 2 hours, and passed a couple of large villas.

By 4.30pm we were still on the road, but the village of Castro del Rio was in sight. We finally arrived at the beautiful castle and Church on top of the hill at 6.15pm. It is a very pretty town with plenty of narrow streets and great views. We checked into our accommodation of Casa del Peregrino, which has been built into the town walls. It is actually on 4 floors, with a well in the hall and a roof top terrace. Information/Advice

We wandered around the town in the cold and dark, calling in any open bars to see if they were serving food, unfortunately not. Once again, the shops were shut. We were grateful to find a pizza take out open. So much for the Mediterranean diet, we hoped for something better the following night. It was nice to return to walking along paths, instead of the previous day’s railway track. The views in the early morning mist, with many ranges of hills to Jaen in the far distance are some of the best views that you can have. We found ourselves very lucky to be in such a beautiful place. Baena was a lovely town, even though the camino doesn't go to the top of the hill to visit Constitutional Square, and the Castle. Again, the stages could have been broken down, allowing a stay here.

The afternoon walk was still pretty, but seemed endless, with many miles along a deserted road. However, the town of Castro del Rio more than makes up for it, with its very pretty old town, castle, churches, old walls and narrow streets. We stayed in a most unusual apartment, built into the town walls, with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a kitchen/lounge, on 4 floors, with a roof terrace, all accessed with an iron spiral staircase. We have never stayed anywhere so unique.

Distance 20 miles (32 km)

Duration of Walk 10 Hours including breaks

Elevation Gained 1590 feet (484m)

Average pace 30 minutes per mile

Information/Advice

Bookings.com Casa del peregrino https://www.andalucia.org/en/baena-natural-spaces-cueva-del-yeso caves, which we did not visit as they were closed.

 

The Camino Mozárabe - Stage 8 - Castro del Rio to Santa Cruz

From Castro del Rio there are 2 different routes to Cordoba, either directly there, which is 24 miles/39km passing through no towns. Or the route that we decided to take via Espejo, then staying the night at Santa Cruz a distance of 15 miles/24km. This leaves 16 miles /26km, to Cordoba the following day. We left at 7.55am, with not much open, but fortunately finding breakfast at Bar Cordoba before crossing the Guadajoz river and leaving town at 8.40am. After passing a petrol station with a small shop, we turned right at a sign (9am), 1 Mile from town. We went through an underpass, turning left, then right following arrows and marker posts, passing fields of olives and crops. Later, we had fabulous views of Espejo Castle high on the hill. (4.5 miles, 2 hours 150m ascent). On arrival in Espejo we followed the signs, going up steep slopes to a beautiful large square with orange trees. We arrived at a view point, at 11am (6.5 miles, 3 hours, 297m), then the castle. Castle Ducal was first built in the late 13th century but can't be accessed-I believe it is in private ownership. We descended passing many historic buildings in the narrow streets, the police station interestingly inside the town hall. We arrived at Bar San Antonio on the outskirts of town, and had more coffee and toast. Again, we were very lucky, as it was the only bar open. It was 11.30am and again a bar with only men drinking brandy, coffee, smoking and gambling on cards-fun times!! Heading back towards Espejo, we turned right out of the town, with further great views(12.30pm). After 15minutes we reached an old Roman bridge to our left-La Pontanilla. It is fascinating to imagine people 2,000 years ago walking the same way, hopefully, there was more water then, than now. We went up a hill, then continued for another 5km, passing crops. The path then turns left, a quicker route to Santa Cruz would be straight ahead, but unfortunately there is no bridging or wading point of the river here! Turning left the path passes a very interesting old aqueduct (14 miles). One mile later, the path meets a junction with the very busy N-432 road. (15 miles, 435m ascent, 7 hours 20 mins, 3.15pm). We walked along the road, with some very fast traffic. Once over the bridge, there is a path to the right, through pasture land with a few olive trees.

We arrived at 4pm at Hostal Casa Jose, which was being renovated, so not currently serving food. Later we walked round the small town, with 2 shops and a bakery. We ate a lovely dinner at La Bartola over the road from our hotel, the dinner service begins at 8pm.

Distance 16 miles (25.5km)

Duration of Walk 7 Hours 55 minutes including breaks

Elevation Gained 1540 feet (470m)

Average pace 29 minutes per mile

Information/Advice

This was a lovely day of walking, with Espejo being one of the highlights of the trip. The views from the top made the climb very worthwhile. I loved the historic Roman Bridge too, which now is superfluous.

If short of time, you could just by-pass Espejo as it is high on a hill, and then take the same route as us. Or from Espejo walk straight along the busy main road to Santa Cruz

The downside, of today's walk, was walking alongside the very busy main road. We met a new friend Simon, who unfortunately could not find any accommodation in Espejo so was forced to continue to Santa Cruz, (having started in Baena), by the fastest route. This being all the way down the very busy road, using a torch as darkness fell, arriving at Hostal Casa Jose 3 hours after us.

The Pontanilla Roman bridge was built on an old Roman road running from Ategua to Ucubi. It has a single-arch with a span of 3m, built with sandstone blocks without mortar. The armies of Caesar and Pompey must have crossed it when marching to the battle of Munda in 45 BC. It is amazing that it has lasted so well.

Websites

Booking.com Hostal Casa Jose Good location, beautiful sunset from the room

 

The Camino Mozárabe - Stage 9 - Santa Cruz to Cordoba

We were looking forward to the last day of our current trip, and walking 16 miles/26km to Cordoba. We ate breakfast at La Bartola restaurant, before going to the bakery and shop, knowing that there was nowhere to buy food along the way. It had been raining overnight, and was forecast to be a drizzly day. We left at 8.30am following signs up the road, passing a garlic factory. After 4 miles/6.5km, (10am 138m ascent), we turned left down a sandy track, with signs saying to Cordoba 18.7km and back to Santa Cruz 5.5km. A mile further on apparently there is a Roman Bridge, hidden in a reed bed. The reeds were far too overgrown for us to find it though, even though we tried to look!! At 11.30am, (8miles) we came to a brand-new picnic area, later there is an information board about Caesar and his army. We followed the obvious track, and ate our picnic lunch with a great view of the city of Cordoba in the foothills of the Sierra Morena. We arrived at the junction of road CP272, (14.5 miles, 444m ascent, 6 hours), and wandered along the roads through Cordoba, coming to a sign saying 998km to Cordoba-exciting. We were very excited to be crossing the Roman Bridge over the River Guadalquivir into Cordoba, arriving at the massive walls of the Mezquita.

We had had a lovely day in the very interesting company of our new friend Simon from Germany. We were happy to arrive at Hotel Maestre, just as the rain started to fall, the day having kept dry. The hotel was very good value for money, with a very helpful receptionist too.

Distance 17 miles (27 km)

Duration of Walk 7 Hours 10 minutes including breaks

Elevation Gained 1555 feet (464 m)

Average pace 25 minutes per mile

Information/Advice

In total we had walked 113 miles/181 km from Antequera to Cordoba, with 10,000 feet/ 3,048m ascent over 6 days. We are hoping to return to Cordoba another time and continue the Camino Mozarabe for 140 miles/230km to Merida, where it joins the Via de la Plata, before continuing to Santiago.

This is a fantastic walk with fabulous views. Take plenty of food and water, as on many days there was nowhere to buy anything. We struggled to find food, and were lucky to get coffee, and toast with tomatoes for breakfast and lunch. We lost count of

the number of bars that were not serving food. Many shops were closed as it was 3 Kings Day then a Sunday.

The weather can be changeable. For us, it was unseasonably cold, especially in the evenings when trying to find food. I would definitely take warm hats, gloves, buff, and an umbrella. We did have a couple of very warm afternoons, so take sunhats and suntan lotion too. The weather apart from the hailstorm was beautiful, with perfect blue skies. It was January in southern Spain, maybe the weather was unseasonably cold, with frosts in the morning, but bright sunshine during the day-temperatures up to around 15degrees.

A very small knapsack would have been useful in the evening and during our free day in Cordoba.

We forgot our camino credentials, so we could not collect any stamps. there was nowhere to buy the credential either. A very elementary mistake.

We had booked most of the accommodation in advance on Bookings.com as usual. Our new friend Simon however, was phoning hostels on arrival in a town-he is fluent in Spanish. He was successful everywhere except in Espejo, where he phoned 3 numbers with no-one answering, so he had no choice but to continue for a further 3 hours to Santa Cruz. He showed his credentials where he stayed and got a reduced pilgrim price. As it was very quiet and January, we preferred to have everything booked.

The walk was amazingly quiet, we met only one other walker, even after the 2 Caminos had merged in Baena. In most of the accommodation we were the only people staying. Even the countryside seemed deserted, with only a few people out picking olives. Obviously, January is not a popular time for this Camino.

At present I could not find a book in English about the route. Maybe in the future if the walk becomes more popular, a book will be published.

Useful websites https://santiagoways.com/en/walking-the-mozarab-way/ https://speedqueeninvestor.com/our-laundry-stores/locations/spain/cordoba/lavanderia-autoservicio-speed-queen/138536 Laundrette in Cordoba

Cordoba

The following day, we visited Cordoba. It is a beautiful city, and well-worth spending some time here before heading off. A good tip we received was you can visit the Mezquita/Cathedral between 8.30am and 9.30am for free, instead of paying €13.00-which we did.

We went on a "free" walking tour, booked online with Sandeman’s. It started by the Roman Bridge, visiting the old Jewish area, courtyard/patios which are free to enter, we learnt so much about the history of the city.

We visited the Tower de la Calahorra-overlooking the Roman Bridge, the free Archaeological Museum, Roman temple ruins, and the lovely big Plaza de la Corredera-not to be missed. The Alcazar is very interesting-we have visited it previously.

We went online and booked the fast frequent train back to Malaga, alternatively the bus can be caught.

Happy hiking and great travels.

 

 

Information/Advice

There are many Caminos (walks) across Spain created by pilgrims walking to Santiago's Church in Santiago from various parts of Europe, for over 1,000 years. The Mozarabic Way is one of the historical routes used since the Middle Ages by pilgrims from different parts of Andalusia.

Like many of the Caminos the Camino Mozarabe fell out of use during the 19th century. Other routes began to be popular from the 1970s onwards, with an explosion of pilgrims in this century. The most popular one is Camino Frances from Saint-Jean-Port in France, taking about 30 days to reach Santiago.

The recent interest in the Camino Mozarabe from Malaga has been more gradual, the first way marked yellow arrows were installed by volunteers in 1999. The route is rarely flat, passing through olive groves, following mainly old tracks and paths, before joining the Via de La Plata in Merida. It is recommended to avoid the route in the very hot Summer months, instead aim for the months of March-May and September-October, even in October we found it very warm. Accommodation is found along the way, some of which can be booked in advance. At present it is a very quiet route, going through some towns, and sparsely inhabited countryside.

Most of this walk was well signed-posted, but we had printed off the information from http://www.caminomozarabedesantiago.es/documentos/guia-eng.pdf in advance.

This is a walk that we would recommend with superb views. Check the weather forecast before setting off. Being at an altitude we did take hats/gloves and buffs for the morning and evening, as there was a definite chill in the air.

We booked the accommodation in advance, and were very pleased that we had. None was apparent when we arrived in the towns. The route was very quiet-we only met walkers near Antequera, out on a day walk. I am not sure if it ever gets busy? The towns were also very quiet.

As usual wear boots, we wear Lowa. Take a phone and battery chargers, so the apps can be used. Take sun hats, sun tan lotion and plenty of food and water as there are large stretches with nowhere to replenish supplies. Walking sticks maybe useful if the path is unstable with loose rocks and sand.

We always take a stroll round in the evening to find the start of the next stage, in order to save time the next day. We sometimes leave in the dark too.

I always take a photo of the Stage notice board, so the map on it can be checked later.

This area of Southern Spain is accessible from England either by driving through France and Spain, or flying to Malaga then hiring a car or catching the reliable, cheap public transport.

Websites used

https://www.andalucia.org/en/routes-camino-mozarabe-de-santiago Stages

https://www.csj.org.uk/camino-mozarabe-from-malaga Information

https://caminomozarabedemalaga.com/ Information

http://www.caminomozarabedesantiago.es/documentos/guia-eng.pdf Pilgrims guide

https://www.mapmywalk.com/

https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather

https://www.andalucia.org/en/antequera-cultural-tourism-recinto-monumental-de-la-alcazaba castle

https://www.andalucia.com/antequera/dolmens-de-menga.htm Burial chambers

https://www.avanzabus.com/destinos/malaga/ Bus