The Pennine Way

The Pennine Way is an iconic walk running the 268 miles (435km) from Edale in Derbyshire, England to Kirk Yetholm in Scotland. The route follows Britain’s rocky spine (the backbone of England) from the hills of the Derbyshire Peak District and the Yorkshire Dales, through the Swaledale Valley, across the North Pennines, over Hadrian’s Wall in Northumberland to the Cheviot Hills, ending at Kirk Yetholm, in the Scottish Borders.

The Pennine Way was the first National Trail in England, opening in 1965. It can be walked in successive stages taking about 20 days or in individual day stages. To us the difficulty seemed to be in finding accommodation. When the route was devised there were more youth hostels open along the way, or many walkers camped either in campsites or wild camped. Rest days can be taken along the way, Maybe take time to visit Hebden Bridge, Skipton or Appleby, to name just a few.

The best months to walk the Pennine Way are from mid-May to September when the weather is usually better. But at any time of the year the weather can be very poor, making navigation very difficult. Snow may be found in sections during the winter months.

Day 1 Edale to Crowden Via Kinder Plateau and Bleaklow Head – 16 miles (26 Km) 680m ascent and descent

Day one incorporates some of the best views, the 2nd longest ascent of the Pennine Way and Bleaklow hill with its notorious fogs, and navigational difficulties. After the start in Edale there are no food supplies or facilities. This was a tougher day than we imagined and we were very grateful for the miles of paving stones that have been added to ensure that the path is raised above the many bogs. The day can be divided into 2 sections, firstly Edale over Kinder Plateau to the A57 Snake road, then secondly up the Devil's Grough to Bleaklow, followed by a steady downhill to Crowden.

Due to the problems with accommodation we had decided to walk the first few days based from our home. We left home in Stockport in 2 cars, dropping the first one off at Torside car park on the A628 Woodhead Road (£4.50 with toilets), then left the other one in the large car park near Edale Station (£7.00 with toilets). Leaving the car park in Edale at 8.45am we bought a coffee and cake at the nearby Penny Pot Cafe. We headed north along the main road through the stunningly located Edale village, past the Romper pub on the left, before arriving at the Old Nags Head 250m (820ft), the starting point of the Pennine Way. Both these pubs provide evening meals and accommodation.

We departed at 9.15am taking the signed path through a gate, with a stream to the right, 5 minutes later through another gate and emerged onto open pasture with birds swooping overhead. We headed west through the sheep filled fields, through Barber Booth, passing Crowdenlea Farm, then turned right up a small road. On

arrival at Lee Farm check out a small cow shed on the left which is now converted into a small museum of the local area. We continued up the road through a gate arriving at an old packhorse bridge at 10.15am, check out the ancient ford across the stream too. From medieval times packhorse trains went this way across the high Pennine moors carrying goods like salt and cotton from the west, which were exchanged for coal and lead from the east. The path splits here, with the left being less steep for the packhorses, we took the path to the right up the strangely named Jacobs Ladder. It is named after Jacob Marshall who farmed at Edale Head in the 1700s, he cut steps into the hillside to make the track easier to climb. Fifteen minutes later the paths rejoin by a large cairn-Edale Cross, before the packhorse trail continues to Hayfield. We stopped to admire the views to the right over the River Noe, and back down the Edale Valley. Continuing uphill the path is narrower, but obvious, and we arrived at the top of Kinder Low 633m (2077ft) at 10.45am, with its white trig point. (3 miles, 1.5 hours). From here there are fantastic views over Cheshire, North Wales and South Lancashire and is well worth the walk.

We turned right and headed in a northerly direction, along the obvious path running along the edge of the Kinder Plateau, before arriving at Kinder Downfall at 11.45am. At this point the river creates a waterfall over the edge of the plateau. A famous sight is, if a strong westerly wind is blowing the water blows back upstream, and can be seen from many miles away. We crossed the stream continuing north, passing a large cairn on our right which marks the edge of the plateau. The path then falls steeply down to a junction, one path coming up Williams Clough from Hayfield, one heading east to the Snake Inn, and our path to Bleaklow. (12.30pm 6 miles 3 hours).

We continued north, arriving at the top of Mill Hill 544m (1785ft) at 12.55pm. The original path across the bog has fortunately been replaced by old mill stones. These make it a quick yomp, with the direction obvious too. We arrived at the A57 Snake Road at 1.45pm. It was a busy walking day with at least 50 cars parked at the side of the road, shame that there wasn't an ice cream van!. We carefully crossed the busy road, and went through a gate by a little sign saying The Pennine Way. Out of interest there is a bus stop here, bus number X56 going between Sheffield and Manchester via Glossop. (9 miles 4.5 hours)

The path to the top of Bleaklow follows Devils Dyke, which is just a trough with no views at all. At one point the path opened out (2.20pm), and the directions are not apparent. We spent the next 30 minutes, crossing and re-crossing a stream in Hern Clough, there are very few signs, and the path is vague in places. We were so lucky to have a clear day, or we would have really struggled.

We happily arrived at the top of Bleaklow 633m (2077ft) at 3.15pm, with some great views. We carried straight on happy to have completed the final ascent of the day, then we tracked to the right hand side of a stream. At a confluence of the stream (Torside Clough), we crossed over and climbed up the steep slope on the other side. As we descended a sometimes paved path through the pretty heather the views improved, as the two reservoirs we were we heading towards came into view. Arriving at the bottom of the path near a house, 220m (720feet) (4.45pm), the actual Pennine Way turns left, and continues over the reservoir to Crowden. We turned right and walked for about one mile along the Transpennine Trail, returning to our car

at 5.15pm. One last thing to see is the very pretty memorial garden, just before the car park..

Distance 15.6 miles (25km)

Duration of Walk 7.5 Hours

Elevation 1983 feet (604m)

Average Pace 29 min/mile

We really enjoyed this walk, the weather was great, if a bit windy and the views were tremendous, and we were surrounded by beautiful countryside.

Comments

As always we advise wearing walking boots - we wear Lowa. The weather in this area can be changeable so take wet weather clothes, hats, sun hats, map, compass and first aid kit etc. Take a phone charger, especially if using on-line resources. Also take food and drink, as none were available on this trip.

We felt that this was quite a difficult day, even with great weather and fantastic views, taking us 8 hours with only short stops. At one time without the recently built stone paths, and modern navigational devices, walkers would have got very wet in the many bogs, and lost too. These days walking clothes are of a much superior quality. We also had the advantage of only carrying day packs, instead of large bags containing a tent that could have been necessary. We did wonder when the path was first created how many walkers gave up on day one.

Crowden has no facilities other than a youth hostel and campsite, which do provide food, and there are no lunch options en route either. So stock up in Edale – and perhaps for the next leg too, as Standedge is similarly bereft.

Look out for Curlews, short-eared owls, golden plover, mountain hares, and red grouse.

 

Pennine Way Day 2 Crowden to Standedge

Today's walk is 15 miles, (25km) with 2000 feet (600m) of ascent, over Black Hill, which used to be a complete quagmire with heavy deep black bogs, hence the name. These days fortunately the path is now firm flagstones, with plenty of vegetation. The route then descends to the A635 road, continuing with completely different landscape passing very pretty reservoirs. On arrival at Standedge there is again no facilities.

We left home with the promise of a cold but April sunny day. How wrong was that to be proved-more later. As on Day One of The Pennine Way, due to a shortage of accommodation we left our home in Stockport in 2 cars, dropping the first one off at a small free car park on the A62 (Brun Green) Standedge, east of Diggle. Then arriving at Torside car park on the A628 Woodhead Road (£4.50 with toilets), at 9.30pm. We should have been warned that the weather forecast was incorrect after being hit by a massive snowstorm on the M60 near Stockport, causing it to be subsequently closed, then snow on the road and heavy cloud between Marsden and Longdendale, even skidding en-route. But having been on so many trips worldwide, we were not going to be put off by a bit of snow!!

Leaving the car park at Torside, we turned right along the Longdendale Trail, re-joining the Pennine way as it comes down from Bleaklow, at the crossing the B6105. (9.50am). We followed the obvious signs over the dam, admiring the very pretty Torside Reservoir, the first of many reservoirs for today. We crossed the very busy A628 Manchester to Sheffield road (10.15am), then walked along a disused road, through 2 gates, then made sure we took the correct left turn to commence the ascent of Black Hill on the path. (10.30am)

After 30 minutes the weather, which had been slightly bright when we left the car, took a decided turn for the worse with heavy snow falling. Strangely the stone path was still visible, with about 6cm of snow all around. We hoped that the snow would stop, but alas it just got worse. We debated whether we should turn round and return to our car. But the path looked fairly treacherous going down. We spoke to a couple of people coming down who said the weather was bad but no worse at the top. After having made so much effort positioning cars to get here we decided to continue. (Not good advice really, maybe we should have aired on the side of caution and gone home. Two sticks each would have been helpful too as it was very slippery, as well as proper Alpine Boots.)

We followed the obvious path crossing a stream, then after a couple of falls we finally arrived at the trig point marking the top 582m at 1pm (7 miles. It was a very exhilarating experience, and we were very glad that we had not turned round. The weather had improved a lot, no longer snowing and with great views. We enjoyed the whiteness and stillness all around, eating our sandwiches whilst chatting to fellow walkers. The views are great in all directions, together with the Holme Moss transmitting station to the east.

We continued to head north, the sky still had a leaden appearance but the weather cleared with no more snow. This was a relatively easy path down, arriving at the

A635 Holmfirth road at Wessenden Head at 2.20pm. We treated ourselves to a delicious coffee and bacon sandwich from Carol at Snoopy's van which is parked on the lay-by on the road. Get there early as she closed after we had visited.

Crossing the road, the 2nd section of the walk was so different from the first. The weather was bright and sunny, we even met people in shorts. The scenery is very different too, no more black peat bogs. There are plenty of reservoirs built in around 1800, which supply the Huddersfield Canal, and mill town of Marsden.

At 3.20pm we arrived at the end of Wessenden reservoir, with signs to Standedge, Wessenden and to a nearby waterfall. We followed the Kirklees Way path, then after ten minutes we took the very steep path on the left signposted the Pennine Way down to the stream. Turning left along the stream, then right over a small bridge. We went up a very steep slope, reaching a small building on the left, signed The Pennine Way, crossing another stream, following steps, until the top of the slope is reached. Returning to the same height as we had been 30 minutes previously.

We had pure sunshine now, eating a quick snack at the beautifully located Black Moss Reservoir, which has a couple of sandy beaches. Heading north again, then turning west before the beautiful Redbook reservoir is reached. We followed the obvious path arriving back at our car park at 5pm, (387m) with views back to Black Hill, looking resplendent in the snow.

This was a fantastic day, taking us 7.5 hours to walk the leisurely 15 miles. Given the inclement weather that we had experienced in the morning, it is imperative to take the correct kit, and maybe not believe the weather forecast!!! We would love to return to Black Hill, when the weather is better, just to see what we missed.

Distance 15.6 miles (25km)

Duration of Walk 7.5 Hours

Elevation 1983 feet (604m)

Average Pace 29 min/mile

Information

There are no facilities on the A635 at Standedge. Buses could be caught to Diggle.

Black Hill and Bleaklow make up the largest moorland conservation area in Europe, with much of the Moorland being restored.

Look out for the "Framing the Landscape" at Wessenden Head-a great photo opportunity.

Pennine Way Day 3 Standedge Oldham, to Hebden Bridge The Pennines, UK

Today's walk is a comparatively easy 15 miles, (25km) with 1180 feet (360m) of ascent. It starts at Standedge near Oldham, then over Blackstone Edge with fantastic views, along an old drovers road, over the M62 motorway, passing reservoirs with plenty of historical interest to Stoodley Pike, and finally along the canal into Hebden Bridge. All of which provides a variety of scenery.

As on Days One and Two due to a shortage of accommodation on The Pennine Way, we left our home in Stockport in 2 cars. We left the first one at Hebden Bridge railway station, (£5.00 per day), then left the 2nd one 30 minutes later at a small free car park (Brun Green) Standedge, on the A62 east of Diggle, where we had finished day 2 the previous week.

Leaving Brun Green at 9.15am we crossed the A62 road, picking up the signed path with fantastic views to Manchester and Rochdale to the west. We headed north past a couple of trig points, with signs for Marsden Moor heritage trail arriving 2.5 miles later at the A640, Huddersfield Road. Crossing this road we continued north to White Hill (466m), with the sound of the motorway getting closer, arriving on the A672. There is sometimes a handy snack van parked in the layby, observe the stone which marks the most easterly point of Lancashire. We passed the access road to aptly named Windy Hill communications tower. Again heading north, we crossed the M62 on a footbridge. I have always wanted to cross this bridge, having driven on the 4 lane motorway under it on numerous occasions from Manchester to Leeds.

We followed the track along the very pretty Blackstone Edge (472m), with brilliant views and a sheep shelter. At the end of the ridge there is the Aiggin Stone, a medieval guide stone for travellers some 600 years old. We went left down the paved road, this is sometimes referred to as a Roman Road, but it was probably constructed after the first Blackstone Edge turnpike act of 1734. After a couple of 100ms we followed the path to the right, round a corner staying high following the Broad Head Drain. Opposite the White House pub is a little path to the right of an old quarry which we took, before climbing over the fence onto the road. The White House pub (370m) is a local landmark on the High Pennine Hills, with fabulous views over the moors and down to Hollingworth Lake (Rochdale). Parts of the main house date from 1671,unfortunately for us it was shut.

Crossing the road, we took the relatively easy path passing Blackstone reservoir -the first of a few. We met a young couple who were walking the whole of The Pennine Way mostly wild camping with a 6 month old baby, we thought this was very brave, with an awful lot of kit to carry. We hope they made it. Stoodley Pike (a tower 37m high) then came into view (2.15pm), however, it took an hour to actually reach it. This path was very beautiful with further views to Todmorden, and more hills to the north. We reached Stoodley Pike at 3.15pm, (13 miles) a very popular location. It was originally built in 1815 to commemorate victory over Napoleon at the Battle of

Waterloo. After a lightning strike in 1854 it was re-built, and now has a lightning conductor on the top. It is possible to climb up the steps inside too.

From the top, we turned east, then north again through the very pretty Callis Wood crossing the Rochdale Canal, and the A646 road at 4.30pm (15 miles). The end of day 3. From here we followed the very pretty canal for some distance before visiting the lovely town centre before returning to the train station (1.5 miles).

Distance 15.4 miles (24.8 km)

Duration of Walk 7.5 Hours

Elevation 1115 feet (339m)

Average Pace 28 min/mile

Information

The M62 was opened in 1971, 6 years after the Pennine Way. We were actually amazed at how far the noise of the motorway travels. The surrounding main roads, these days are surprisingly quiet except during bad weather, or when the motorway is closed. When crossing the motorway, you realise how much traffic it carries.

https://thejournalofantiquities.com/2013/05/06/aiggin-stone-blackstone-edge-lancashirewest-yorkshire/

https://www.visitcalderdale.com/stoodley-pike-monument

Accommodation, food, and drinks are in abundance in Hebden Bridge, making it a potential rest day.

 

Pennine Way Day 4 Hebden Bridge to Cowling, Yorkshire

This is a fairly long walk of 17 miles, with 840m of ascent. It is difficult to find the route for the first couple of miles, but it does pass through the most beautiful village of Heptonstall, following that it is a relatively easy very pretty track across the moors. After Heptonstall there is nowhere on the track to replenish supplies.

The first 3 days of our Pennine Way trip had been undertaken as day trips from our home in Manchester, leaving a car at each end of the day's walk. At the end of day 3 (Callis bridge), we had walked a couple of extra miles along the canal to Hebden Bridge Station. This enabled us to commence day 4 from the station-this being an option in our guide book too. We had booked the accommodation for the next 7 days of the Pennine Way in advance. There does seem to be a shortage of accommodation along this walk, necessitating some days hiking to be longer than we would have wished.

We arrived at Hebden Bridge Station at 9.15am, we preferably would have started the walk earlier, but this was the first train from our home. It is a very pretty station with the original Victorian features, near to the canal. We turned left along the main road, calling into the handy Co-op store for some last-minute supplies. Crossing the road by Cuckoo Steps Mill (9.45am), we ascended a very steep flight of ancient steps (Stoney Lane), turning right up Lee Royd. Then left at a cobbled path, with a great view back to Stoodley Pike, and the valley. Up more steps, then we arrived at the beautiful village of Heptonstall. Take some time to check out the 2 churches, cobbled streets, and useful post office. Passing the school on the right, we reached the countryside once more, then followed the Pennine Way sign to the left, right through a wood, and finally turning right to re-join the road we had left! We picked up the signs for the Pennine Way and Pennine bridleway over the moors and re-joined the main path coming up from Callis Bridge at 12pm. This section had been time-consuming, trying to find the ‘correct path’ which was not obvious, instead of just making our own way.

We continued over Heptonstall Moor (370m) with its pretty purple heather, headed north past Gorple Reservoirs to the left, alongside a pretty stream, turning left along the main road, then right up a very quiet tarmac road. For me this area was some of the prettiest of the day. We walked alongside the Walshaw Reservoirs, stopping to eat lunch. The Pennine Way turns right halfway along the 2nd reservoir, with paving slabs continuing gently up the slope. There are lovely views back over the moors. Coming over the brow we arrived at the popular location of Top Withins (450m, 2.30pm). This is the ruins of a farmhouse long associated with Emily Bronte’s novel Wuthering Heights, written in 1847. More recent claims, that it is not where the novel took place does not stop many visitors making the couple of mile hike from Howarth (where the Bronte family lived), to visit the area. After a very solitary day, it is always strange to then come across parties of people. Be careful here to find the correct path, heading north again, with Pen-y-Ghent in the far distance.

Following the path, we arrived at the very pretty Ponden reservoir (3pm). The path goes to the left and after studying the map and the time, we took a short cut passing to the right hand side of the reservoir, before turning left up the road. We turned right to re-join the official path passing between 2 buildings and went up a very steep slope. The path passes across the wide expanse of Ickornshaw Moor (438m) passing to the right of the trig point and Wolf Stones. We could see the rain falling all around. We continued north following the paved path, relieved that the rain did not reach us.

We passed a cottage, and 4 small black huts-we were not sure what these are used for. We were very pleased when our destination of Cowling came into view, as it seemed like a long

day. The last section is well signposted, leaving the moors, through fields of sheep, taking a track past a small waterfall. We arrived on the main road A6068, crossing over it, then turning left into tonight’s destination of Squirrel Wood Campsite at 5.40pm. It is a very small site, having about 5 wooden lodges with everything provided and outdoor seating areas, and a shower block. By the time we arrived it was too cold to sit out, then it poured in rain. The owner Adi is a great host. There is a sign, Edale 53.8 miles, and Kirk Yetholm 200.5 miles-not too far to go then!

This was a long day for us, having left home at 6.50am, with a walk of 18 miles carrying full kit. But it is always great to be out heading for the horizon through very pretty countryside.

After showers-token provided-we walked into the small village of Cowling, calling into the small shop, before eating a very large dinner in the Bay Horse pub.

Distance 17.9 miles 28.8 km

Duration of Walk 8 hours 30 minutes

Average pace of walk 28 mins per mile

Elevation 2605 feet 794m

Information

https://www.nationalrail.co.uk/ train

http://www.squirrelwoodcampsite.co.uk/ accommodation

https://www.bayhorsecowling.com/ pub

 

Pennine Way Day 5 Cowling, Gargrave to Malham, Yorkshire

This stage connects the end of the south Pennines, with the Yorkshire Dales (known as the Aire gap). It consists of pretty, undulating countryside-but don’t be deceived, the walk is harder than you think. We lost the path on more than a few occasions. In our guide book, this stage is spilt into two, staying one night in Gargrave. After studying it we decided to complete it in one full day, a distance of 19 miles.

We packed up from where we were staying at Squirrel Lodge campsite, leaving one bag to be collected by Sherpa van. We had not been able to do this the previous day as we had arrived on the train after Sherpa needed to collect the bag. We left the campsite after a snack breakfast in our lodge at 7.45am, turning right along the main road, before picking up signs, over fields and roads to Higher Gill Bottom, passing ducks, geese and chickens. We followed the path through fields and on empty roads, along the stream. The countryside was looking beautiful in the morning sunshine. At 9am we had great views back to a tower over Cowling, and hills to the east. We went down a steep slope and steps to the beautiful village of Lothersdale. On the outskirts of the village there is an honesty box outside a house, with cakes sold in aid of Uganda. It was just the delicious snack that we needed. I am surprised there are not more honesty boxes along these walks. I am sure that there is plenty of money to be made from hungry/thirsty walkers passing by. Just off the path is Dale End Mill with the largest waterwheel in England dating from 1861, it has a diameter of 44ft (13.5m). Tours can be taken. Turning left past the Hare and Hounds pub, we continued over fields crossing a small road to the drive of Hewitts Farm. There is a well-positioned bench, where we sat eating our cake from the honesty shop (9.30am), with tremendous views over to where we had been. Continuing north over Elslack Moor, we reached a new topograph and trig point of Pinhaw Beacon 388m(1273ft) at 10am, with great views including west over the pink heather moors to Pendle Hill. Continuing, the route goes down Blogger Lane, across more fields, then at a junction of 3 paths, takes the one on the far right hand side, using paving stones for about 20 minutes. We crossed over a stream (10.30am), through a field passing a smelly farm, under a disused railway line, and passed a goat sanctuary. We arrived on the outskirts of Thornton-in-Craven at 11am, we thought it was a shame that the path took such a complex route to avoid the village! We thought it would be more interesting and easier to pass through the village, as well as bringing it some trade. We crossed the busy A56 road on a pelican crossing, passing a pink house, then left-up Cam Lane. (7.5miles). We crossed more fields before reaching the Leeds Liverpool canal at 11.40am (8.7miles). (Leeds 38 miles, Liverpool 89 miles) We followed it for a couple of bridges, including a fascinating double-arched bridge, before walking across more fields, arriving at Gargrave village at 12.30pm (11miles). We felt it would have been easier/nicer to follow the canal all the way to Gargrave.

We thought we would treat ourselves to lunch in the famous Dalesman Café, with a sign outside to Edale 70 miles/Kirk Yetholm 186 miles. We went in and waited to be served, the wait was too long, so we left going to the Co-op shop and bought sandwiches to eat on the bench outside. I feel that it is such a shame for the café owners that a better service is not provided. Today’s walk could have ended here as it is a pretty village to explore and accommodation is available. But it would make the next days walk to Malham (6.5miles) very short. I think all walkers must stay in Malham, as the next accommodation after that is not for 15 miles. Following our lunch, we passed along the side of The Dalesman Café, over the canal, up a bridle track, then right over beautiful Eshton Moor meadow (15miles 2.30pm). We then walked along the pretty bank of the River Aire, with beautiful trees, passing Newfield Hall,

built in 1865. We followed the river for a couple of miles until Kirby Malham, where the path continues up the road, then turns right uphill once more. We descended with pretty views to the church in Malham, Malham Cove and Gordale scar, arriving in the honey pot town of Malham at 4pm. .

We were unaccustomed to see so many people, it is certainly a popular spot. We arrived at the YHA at 4.40pm. This was the most disappointing stay we have had for years. As it is a Youth Hostel (but available for families, drivers and any age of people) it does not open till 5pm, so we waited outside. We paid £69 for a small room with bunk beds with a shared bathroom, not good value for money, no laundry facilities were available and photo I.D. is required at check-in,-unlike anywhere else we stayed. There is a kitchen to use, but no food provided to purchase. In Malham itself the village shop was shut, one pub was shut, the other pub and the hotel were fully booked for meals that evening. I waited at reception whilst a young man bought some cereal bars and chocolate for his evening meal, and breakfast the following day. Nothing more substantional was available for him, he was leaving at 7am to walk 30 miles the next day, I only hope he made it!!!. I feel that the YHA organisation have strayed far from their original ethos of accommodation for walkers, and am not sure why they can’t provide an evening meal, or some food for people to cook, canned food would have sufficed.

We had seen on social media that places were busy. I had phoned both pubs in Malham in advance and ended up booking a table at the Victoria Inn in Kirby Malham. We were fortunately being picked up by friends who live locally, otherwise it would have been a 40-minute walk. Malham is always a popular tourist attraction, it was fairly busy when we arrived. If dining in one of the 2 pubs book in advance. The Victoria Inn is a lovely pub, very good food was provided by friendly staff-one to be recommended. This was a lovely walk with undulating terrain and fabulous views. We lost the signs a couple of times, mostly due to overgrown vegetation. It was the middle of August and we saw nobody else walking the Pennine Way in either direction. If this was spilt back into 2 stages with an overnight in Gargrave, on arrival in Malham either Gardale Scar or Janet's Foss can be visited. Distance 19 miles 31 km

Duration of Walk 9 hours

Average pace of walk 28 minutes per mile

Elevation 2029 feet 618 m

Information

https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1132272

https://www.yha.org.uk/hostel/yha-malham

https://www.victoriakirkbymalham.co.uk/

 

Pennine Way Day 6 Malham to Ribblehead, Yorkshire

Today is a fairly long walk of 19 miles from Malham, via Malham Cove and Tarn, across open moor with fabulous views, ascending Pen-y-ghent, and according to our book this stage ends in Horton-in-Ribblesdale. Unfortunately, there was nowhere to stay in Horton, so we had booked The Station Inn at Ribblehead. We had originally planned to catch the train from Horton to Ribblehead, returning to the path after breakfast. However, after consulting the map we continued the walk from Pen-y-ghent to Ribblehead, re-joining the Pennine Way via the Dalesway the following day. We decided as long as the distance covered was about the same, then this would be fine. Breakfast is served in the YHA from 7.30am, and in anticipation of our long day, we were there at 7.20am packed and ready to leave. We ate the bacon sandwich and coffee that we had ordered the night before. However, it was not good value costing £5.00 each. Leaving at 8am we walked back to The Green, then turned right up the road, heading towards Malham Cove. After 5 minutes we turned right at the campsite, sign-posted to Malham Cove and the Pennine Way. We visited the base of Malham Cove, before ascending approximately 400 steps to the top of the cliff. The limestone scenery is fabulous and has featured on many a school geography field trip, studying in depth the clints (slabs) and grikes (deep fissures) of the limestone pavement, with lichen growing in the gaps. Take care near the cliff edge, limestone can be very slippery when wet. The path goes straight along the pavement, and when the grass is reached, there is sign to the left. We walked up a lovely small valley, turning right after the stile at the top-don't miss this. We walked up another valley, taking time to observe the sink-hole at the top. Again, another fascinating feature, quite a wide river flowing out of Malham Tarn just vanishes into the ground. Tests were carried out in the 1960s with dye put in the river, and found that it emerges beyond Malham Cove at Aire Head, not the stream flowing out under Malham Cove, that you might imagine.

On reaching Malham Tarn (9.10am), the wind had picked up creating small waves. We walked round the righthand side of the tarn, went through a gate (9.30am) arriving at a field centre, shame it was not serving coffee to passing walkers. Just past it is a bench overlooking the very pretty tarn, where we had a snack instead.(4 miles) We turned right by a line of sycamore trees, signed to Tenant Gill Farm. After. passing through the farm, we turned left by a Pennine Way sign.(6miles). Then some of my favourite walking began, I love big open spaces, with fabulous views in all directions. We went gently uphill finally arriving at the top of Fountains Fell, (8 miles) with fantastic views, Pen-y-ghent looking very imposing. We took a steep but obvious path down, arriving on a tarmac road (12pm), we turning left. It was very windy, and we hid behind a wall to eat our lunch-well some apples and Tea cakes that we had bought 2 days earlier in Gargrave. No food being sold in Malham. After one mile of walking down the road we went over a cattle grid then turned right by a sign post (10 miles). The wind was howling through the trees, we had descended a lot and Pen-y-ghent was looking imposing. I was not looking forward to the next stage. There is an interesting limestone pavement on both sides of the

track. There was a parking area, but this has now been closed by very large boulders placed across its entrance, I am not sure why. There is now another sign to the right to Pen-y-ghent,(12.50pm). By 1.10pm we reached a gate with a sign to Horton-in-Ribblesdale, given the very strong wind that was blowing this would have been a good option. Our path became very steep and rocky, with the use of hands required. Be very careful in this section especially in high winds, there are steep drops to one side.

We were very pleased to reach the top 694m at 1.30pm. It was very busy, with a party of Japanese tourists and many families. The path down is obvious, parts are fairly steep and rocky, care needs to be taken. At 2.30pm we reached the point where the path splits, along the Pennine Way 1.5 miles to Horton or north to Ribblehead. Having booked the Ribblehead pub we continued over a small hill, before re-joining the Pennine Way towards High Birkwith. This is an area that we know well, having completed the 3 peaks of Yorkshire on quite a few occasions. At Nether Lodge we left the Pennine way, and headed for the main road. (18miles). Look behind and Pen-y-ghent will seem an awful long way in the distance. Turning right along the B6479, take great care with the fast-moving traffic. The road here is part of the very popular Yorkshire 3 peaks walk, we wonder why a proper path could not be built along this section of road. We reached a cross-roads by the Ribblehead viaduct, where an ice-cream van, mobile café, and support vehicles are usually parked. We turned left and arrived at the very popular Station Inn at 4.45pm. Our room looked out over the very famous Ribblehead viaduct. Ensure that you check this out, together with its fascinating history. If you have time visit the actual viaduct and information boards.

This was a fabulous long day of walking with great views and good weather, just very windy on the top of Pen-y-ghent. We saw more people today than on previous days, again very few of them on the Pennine Way, the majority were ascending the single peak of Pen-y-ghent, others completing the three peaks of Yorkshire. We stayed at the Station Inn at Ribblehead, where we had stayed the previous year whilst walking the Dalesway. Dinner had been booked for us at 6pm. It is a fabulous pub, with many types of beers on tap, delicious large meals, and friendly service.

Distance 19 miles 31 km

Duration of Walk 8 hours 50 minutes

Average pace of walk 27 mins per mile

Elevation 2925 feet 890 m

Information

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malham_Cove

https://www.thestationinnribblehead.com/

 

Pennine Way Day 7 Ribblehead to Hawes, Yorkshire

We had more of a leisurely start today as it is a relatively easier walk of 14 miles to Hawes, this was fortunate as breakfast is not served until 8.30am-a perennial problem in the UK. Not designed for walkers who need an early start. But it was a delicious breakfast, and definitely worth the wait. If wishing to re-join the Pennine Way at Horton, there is a train at 9.15am, and just one stop to Horton. We left at 9.30am, turning left down the road, past lots of parked cars, support vehicles, a bacon sandwich stand (the only time we did not need one) and a Mountain Rescue van helpfully with the weather forecast posted. This area is one of 3 starting points for the 3 peaks of Yorkshire walk. There is nowhere to buy food en-route so we had ordered a packed lunch from The Railway Inn. After walking down the B6255 road for 30 minutes, (1.5miles) we turned right by a mile post signposted for the Dalesway, over a cattle grid following the obvious path uphill. At Cam End 438m we were joined by the Pennine Way (10.30am). It felt good to be back on the right path. There is some re-forestation in the area, which is a great start, but we felt that more trees could be planted. The Dalesway path turns right (10.50am, 3.7 miles), we continued along Cam High Road, a wide stony track, which is based on an old Roman Road and old pack horse trails. It is fascinating to think how many people have walked these tracks. The weather was overcast with a strong wind, with cloud over some of the peaks. But better than last year at this point when we were walking the Dalesway in torrential rain.

At 11.15am, 558m high, we came to the junction with Cam Houses, and the track turns into tarmac. With all of the 3 peaks still in view behind us, we realised how far we had come. We were above the very pretty valley to the right, that the Dalesway walk follows. At Kidhow Gate, (11.40am) the Pennine Way leaves the tarmac track, turning left, taking a route high above another beautiful valley.

We really did take our time on this stretch, enjoying not having to rush to reach our destination, and taking in the beautiful scenery all around. We sat on the hillside eating our lunch-ordered from the Station Inn, with views over another beautiful valley, containing patch work fields, and the villages of Gayle and Hawes. Continuing down Gaudy Lane for 2 miles, we had a look round the village of Gayle, then visited the Wensleydale cheese experience. This is a large shop visited by approx. 250,000 people each year, with a café. The local Wensleydale cheese is delicious and definitely worth buying, having won many awards.

We had a nice walk round the pretty village of Hawes. There are many shops, pubs, cafes and lots of tourists sitting outside enjoying the weather. There is a Spar shop and a couple of independent shops to purchase food for the next two days. There is a very interesting "Museum of the Dales Countryside" in Hawes, which we would had

visited if we had arrived earlier. Interestingly by the museum there is an old station (the railway line to Northallerton which operated from 1878-1954,) and a train is now marooned waiting at the station. There is talk of re-opening this line.

This was the easiest day so far, with brilliant views, and a very easy to follow track/path.

We stayed in "Herriot's in Hawes B and B", with a lovely room, and a warm welcome from the owners. There is a café and art gallery downstairs. They cater for walkers and cyclists, and also run 5 day holidays, transporting walkers round the Yorkshire Dales included in the price.

We bought some food from the Spar shop for dinner, but there was plenty of choice for eating out. Hawes is a lovely touristy village, if coming in peak season it may be advisable to book dinner in advance.

Distance 11.5miles 18km

Duration of Walk 5 hours 45 minutes

Average pace of walk 29 mins per mile

Elevation 1103 feet 336 m Information

https://www.herriotsinhawes.co.uk

https://www.wensleydale.co.uk/ cheese shop dalescountrysidemuseum.org.uk

Pennine Way Day 8 Hawes to Frith Lodge, Keld, Yorkshire

We were really looking forward to today's walk, visiting Hardraw Force, over Great Shunner Fell-hoping for great views, visiting the beautiful Yorkshire villages of Thwaite and Keld. Then onwards a few more miles to the highly acclaimed Frith Lodge which is halfway between Keld and the very famous Tan Hill pub, a distance of 16 miles with 910m of elevation. Take care on Great Shunner Fell, it is easy to get lost in mist, follow the cairns.

After a fabulous breakfast where we were staying in "Herriot's in Hawes", leaving our bag to be collected, we left at 8.30am-a bit late for the distance today. We headed right towards the museum of the Dales, turning left down Brunt Acres Road, passing the old station house, over the disused railway line-spot the marooned train!, passing Raydale preserves, then taking the Pennine Way sign across the fields. It is always nice to return to the countryside, and the path. This is a beautiful walk over fields with sheep,and cattle crossing the River. The rain threatening but holding off for now.

We arrived at our first destination-Hardraw Force Waterfall-allegedly England's largest drop waterfall at 100feet. It is well worth paying the £4.00 each to view, with various paths through pretty woods, allow about an hour for a visit but you could stay longer, visiting the cafe and information centre too. It is in the grounds of The Green Dragon Inn with rooms-maybe for another time.

Back through Hardraw village, passing another cafe, before turning right (11.00am) signed Thwaite 8 Miles, picking up the very long ascent of Great Shunner Fell. The path follows an old cobble path, then many slabs have been laid across the moors, it would have been very wet otherwise. It did seem a long way to the top, at 716m this is the 5th highest mountain on the Pennine Way, and 3rd highest in the Yorkshire Dales. (12.15pm-7 miles.) From the top, Pen-y-Ghent, the Lakeland fells including Helvellyn, Scafell and Nine Standards Rigg can be seen. It had started to rain but the views were still good, with cloud just hovering overhead. We ate a quick lunch in the shelter, but a cold wind was blowing. We met a family with 3 children who were carrying all their camping gear, food etc whilst walking the Pennine Way, very commendable, we hoped they made it.

We followed the long path down across heather moorland with great views to the Dales. We could make out Ravenseat, where the famous Yorkshire Shepherdess was filmed. We joined an old cart track (1.15pm), and disused shepherds' huts. At 2pm we gratefully arrived at Kearton tea room in Thwaite ordering coffees, leaving at 2.30pm. (10.5miles). When we booked Frith Lodge, they had very kindly emailed us with a prettier alternative to the Pennine Way, this also has the advantage of going through the fascinating village of Keld-with information boards about its history-don't miss it. We followed the route they suggested from Thwaite, initially taking the Pennine Way up the hillside to Kisdon, then left up the Herriot Way sign posted to Keld 2 miles, going to the west of Kisdon Hill. This avoids a very rough path, is much

easier and far more enjoyable plus it has great views from the top as well, rejoining the Pennine Way at Keld to continue up to Frith Lodge.

Unfortunately we were hit by very heavy rain. Arriving in Keld we had a look round, and a coffee from the campsite (14 miles). The path then crosses the river up to Catrake Force, with a nice bench to look at the view from. This is a cross over point of the Swale Trail, Coast to Coast walk and the Pennine Way-creating a real problem in finding anywhere to stay. When we walked the Coast to Coast we stayed 4 miles off the path in the Tan Hill inn. In our book the walk ends in Keld, but we carried on, a few more miles to tonight's destination of Frith Lodge.

Frith Lodge is definitely the best accommodation of the trip, with a very friendly welcome from the owners who took a wreck of an old building, and created a stunning property. We had pre-booked the food in advance,3 courses £25.00-well worth it, there is a bar, with a great choice of whisky and wines. We ordered a packed lunch, for the following day, as except for Tan Hill there is nowhere to buy food. The views are fabulous, with rabbits playing out on the lawns too. We met fellow travellers, and enjoyed swopping walking tales.

Distance 16 miles 26 km

Duration of Walk 9 hours

Average pace of walk 32 minutes per mile

Elevation 2985 feet 910m

Information

http://www.hardrawforce.com/waterfall.html - ignore these opening times though

https://www.keartoncountryhotel.co.uk/ cafe in Thwaite

https://www.yorkshiredales.co.uk/villages/keld/

https://www.frithlodgekeld.co.uk/

Pennine Way Day 9 Frith Lodge Keld to Middleton-in-Teesdale, Yorkshire

We had spent a time studying this walk. Our original thought was to walk from Frith Lodge near Keld, to Bowes in one day, then Bowes to Middleton the next day. But looking at it again, this turned into 2 relatively short days. So we decided to skip Bowes, and head straight for Middleton, a distance of 19.5 miles with 2900 feet of ascent. Bowes and Middleton have a bus service to Darlington. Except for Tan Hill there is nowhere to buy food, we ordered a packed lunch from Frith Lodge.

After a fabulous breakfast at Frith Lodge, it was a late start leaving at 9am, turning right at the end of the drive straight up the Pennine Way, north to the Tan Hill pub. Frith Lodge was a fabulous location to stay, being directly on the path. An hour later we arrived at the very famous Tan Hill pub, this is the highest pub in Britain at 530m/1732 feet and gets snowed in in winter. It dates from the 17thC, originally on packhorse ways, during a time when coal mines operated in the local area. It is a very popular destination, being so desolate adds to the attraction. We have previously stayed in a yurt there, delicious large helpings of food are served, with bands and events held at the weekends. From here the owners of Frith Lodge had advised us not to take the Pennine Way across the moors, but go right to the very quiet road, called Long Causeway. It has fabulous views, and was great to make headway on the tarmac, whist watching a couple who had stayed at Tan Hill trying to pick their way across the bog. At 11am or 4.7 miles after leaving Frith Lodge there is a track to the left, signed Tan Hill/Sleightholme Moor Road, and number 71 bike run. At 11.40am (6 miles) we came to a junction, turning right to rejoin the Pennine Way.

Crossing Bowes Moor (with shooting huts) we arrived at Sleightholme at 12pm (7 miles). Passing the farm, then left through a gate, and over a stream. At 12.30pm we came to a junction, where the path splits right for Bowes. We went left towards Middleton arriving at "God's Bridge", (a natural feature of limestone over the River Greta) over a disused railway line, arriving at the very noisy A66 main road. Fortunately for us there is a tunnel underneath the road-admittedly rather smelly and dirty-strange in the middle of nowhere. It takes a long time to escape the noise of the road. but we sat and ate our delicious lunch from Frith Lodge, looking south thinking how far we had walked and we still had a long way to go!!!

The path heads north, over very pretty, empty moors. At 2pm we arrived at a black shooting lodge by a bridge. We headed uphill, then had fabulous views down to a reservoir, with the sun finally making an appearance. The afternoon seemed very long, with reservoirs and gently undulating countryside. We looked at the map to find any other routes. We passed Clove Farm at 3pm (13.5 miles) just before Blackthorn reservoir, through Hannah's Meadow nature reserve, continuing north. At How Farm 4.20pm (16 miles) which is found just before Grassholme Reservoir, we left the Pennine Way and turned right along the road, passing a sailing club. After the reservoir where a road meets the path from the right, we went left across a field and a stream, right along a track, then left along the Tees Railway path, following the disused railway line with interesting features. At Lonton we took a right, followed the River Tees, finally right over the bridge and arrived in Middleton at 5.30pm. The end

of a long day. We were pleased to have arrived, even if we were not on the correct route which seemed to go a long way round. We feel that as long as the destination is reached, it does not matter which way is taken. However, other people would disagree following the path whatever happens. The problem as we always find, is the lack of accommodation and food along the way, making the days sometimes longer than we would have liked and breakfast is served too late for an early start. We had walked 106 miles in 6 days, and were happy with this achievement.

We checked into the Teesdale Hotel, good value for money. It is an 18thC coaching house, impressive, but maybe has seen better days. There are plenty of places to eat, including our Hotel, but we bought some food from the Co-op, and ate outside. Middleton is a pretty town, with a few bus links. It was formally the world's greatest producer of lead, an industry that was here for nearly 2 centuries.

Distance 19.5 miles 31 km

Duration of Walk 8 hours 50 minutes

Average pace of walk 27 min per mile

Elevation 2925 feet 890m

Information

https://www.tanhillinn.com/

https://www.teesdalehotel.co.uk/

Pennine Way Day 10 Middleton-in-Teesdale, Yorkshire to Dufton, Cumbria, UK

Out of all the days walking on this particular trip, this day is by far the best. It effectively crosses from one side of the Pennines to the other, going past the best waterfalls in the country, and remote valleys, until arriving at the sensational High Cup Nick, one of the highlights of the whole trip. It is a long lonely day, with little phone signal. Be prepared for bad weather high on the hills. We could not use Sherpa van services as we were travelling home after the day's walk, and there is no-where to drop the bag off in Dufton. In the guide book this day is spilt into 2, but looking at it ourselves, we hoped we could walk the 22 miles with 533m/1750 feet in one day. Then take the train home to Stockport too.-as it turned out it was a close call. Wish us luck.

As breakfast was not included in the room rate there was no excuse not to leave early-and fortunately we did. We were up at 6.15am, and waiting outside the Co-op store as it opened at 7am. We bought croissants for breakfast and sandwiches for lunch. We left town at 7.20am the way we had arrived, with a cold wind blowing. We went down Bridge Street over the River Tees, past the cattle market, then followed a sign to the right for the Pennine Way. The path basically meanders across fields, following the left hand bank of the River Tees, leaving and joining it at intervals, sometimes along a stony path. It is all very pleasant and peaceful. At 8.30am we arrived at a bridge over the river to Newbiggin. At 8.45am we reached Wynch Bridge which leads to Bowless. The bridge built in 1830 is a grade 2 listed structure, with only one person permitted on it at a time. Compared to some of the bridges we have been on in The Himalayas together with herds of yaks, it seemed very safe and secure to us. Bowless visitor centre can be visited-but we had no time.

Beyond Wynch Bridge past a couple of stone sheep, Low Force waterfall came into view on our right. It is fabulous, but we were aware of better to come. Passing a bridge on the right to High Force Hotel, we entered the Bird Estate (9.30am).We met a fellow walker here Martin, from Sheffield who had stayed at High Force Hotel. (more later) A little further up the path we arrived at one of the highlights of the trip- High Force waterfall, with the thunderous noise of the waterfall heard before it is seen. There is a viewing platform with spectacular views, don't miss this as the only other view is at the top. High Force is England's most powerful waterfall. Low Force and High Force waterfalls have been created by the presence of a sheet of dolerite, in this area called The Great Whin Sill, the rocks of which are more resistant to erosion than the rocks above and below creating an interesting landscape.

We continued, at 10am there was a bridge over a tributary with another waterfall-this would normally have been a big attraction, but it was nothing compared to High Force. Continuing along the river, we took a bridge over it towards the tiny hamlets

of Forest-in-Teesdale and Langdon Beck where some accommodation may be found.

Back to river and over Saur Hill Bridge then passing Sayer Hill farm. The valley here is absolutely fabulous, with a remote feel that you rarely get in England. It follows the river first through meadows, with beautiful black and white cows, then the valley floor becomes very narrow, with a difficult rocky path along the bottom of Falcon Clints-another area of the Whin Sill. Take great care when clambering over the rocks, especially when wet.Eventually the valley opens out slightly and duck boards have been laid. We really did feel like this was the point of no return, 12pm and 10.5 miles covered, but we did meet a couple of people out on a day walk.

Just when we thought we had seen spectacular waterfalls, another one comes into view. Cauldron Snout is a huge torrent of water coming down from Cow Green reservoir. It is more of a long cataract than a waterfall, and at 180m long, reckoned to be the longest waterfall in England. The path is very tricky at this point entailing the use of hands to climb up the steep rocks on the right hand side. We sat at the top of the Cauldron eating our lunch (12.45pm), purchased in the Co-op earlier. Fortunately there is a bridge over the torrent just below the reservoir. It was cold as we continued at 1pm, with the wind whipping up. We followed the stony track, passing a farm, and a sign for Dufton 8 miles-we were happy with our progress. The track continues westwards, across high moors rising to 590m/1935 feet. The cinder path turns at times into a faint track, over small streams, and bog. It began to rain hard now, and with mist was not a very pleasant journey. Fortunately we could see Martin who we had met in the morning up ahead so could follow his route. Eventually we arrived at an old stone marker post, with a carved arrow indicating a right turn downhill. The path crosses a little stream at the top of High Cup Nick, the spectacular landscape here created by The Great Whin Sill. (4.20pm 17miles)

We were very cold and wet, but fortunately the cloud lifted in patches to reveal the fabulous U shaped valley, and the hills of the Lakes in the distance. We caught up with Martin and walked down to the village with him, always nice to hear of someone else's walks. The path follows the right hand side of the valley. On our descent the rain stopped, eventually we came to a track then turned right down the road to reach the village of Dufton at 5.15pm-another long day of walking but spectacular. We were very happy to arrive. Dufton is an Anglo-Saxon settlement built out of red sandstone, and like Middleton previously it is an area very important for lead mining. There is a pub (where we left Martin to meet up with his wife and friend), public toilets and a post office. We had previously checked out local taxi companies from Dufton to the train station in Appleby 3 miles away. But when we tried phoning them, they were busy or would not come out for us. We checked the time, and decided we would have to walk very quickly down the lanes to Appleby to catch our train. Fifteen minutes later a car stopped to offer us a lift, we were so happy to see it was Martin. They very kindly drove us and our large rucksacks to Appleby. We got there not only in time for the train, but with time for well deserved fish and chips which we ate on

the historic platform of Appleby Station. Another time we should have booked a taxi in advance, but having no mobile signal for most of the day, and not knowing the time we would arrive, made this problematic.

We had been so fortunate, meeting Martin was fortuitous, having him to follow for most of the day aided our navigation especially where the path was faint and through the mist. By kindly giving us a lift to Appleby station we were able to get home, via Leeds, Manchester and Stockport station. We travelled on part of the very famous Settle to Carlisle railway, going over the Ribblehead viaduct, passing through much of the countryside we had spent the previous week walking through. Arriving home happily at 11.30pm. Without a lift we would have missed the 7pm train, the lanes to Appleby being hilly, and a long way after a tiring day. We would have maybe had to stay in Appleby/Carlisle or Leeds, as we would not have made it home.

It had been a fabulous 7 days of walking with some stunning scenery. We were tired and elated, but very pleased with our weeks’ achievement. We are looking forward to completing the remainder of the walk to Kirk Yetholm, a distance of 100 miles/160km next year. We would also love to walk from Dufton up to High Cup Nick in good weather to see it in all its glory.

Don’t forget, life is a series of great adventures – go and have some. Happy walking.

Details of the walk

Distance 21 miles 33 km

Duration of Walk 10 hours 8minutes

Average pace of walk 29 per mile

Elevation 1728 feet 526 m

Information

https://www.northpennines.org.uk/bowlees-visitor-centre/

https://www.raby.co.uk/high-force/waterfall/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whin_Sill

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cauldron_Snout

https://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/en_GB/attraction/high-cup-nick/

https://duftonvillage.info/ https://www.nationalrail.co.uk/

Advice for the walk

We worked out the route and booked the accommodation in advance. When we walked it was August so what little accommodation there is tends to be booked up.

Many stages have either long or short days, and accommodation in some areas seems to be lacking.

We booked Sherpa Transport to carry our bags, they transport rucksacks, suitcases, and even camping equipment to the next destination. We have always found them efficient, and never had a problem. All the accommodation could be booked through them too, saving time and effort. However, we like to book it ourselves as if there are any changes to our plans it may be easier to alter. We usually use Bookings.com to book, but occasionally we contact hotels on their website or phone. On most previous trips we have carried all our own kit, then the accommodation does not need to be booked in advance, but carrying less kit does make the walking more pleasurable. If having the labeled bag carried, Sherpa collect before 8.30am in the morning.

If arriving by train book in advance for cheaper fares, we have a travel together card, getting a third-off the train fare, good value at £30 for the year. We used the train splitter website as it checks for the cheapest route, the downside of this may be necessitating catching more trains and taking longer, but up to the individual.

Having done a couple of Caminos in Spain we are used to leaving at 7am and walking for a couple of hours before having coffee and toast for Breakfast. On the Pennine Way, this is not an option as the price of breakfast is included with the room, and on many occasions there is nowhere to obtain food all day. The downside of this being departures are later than we would have liked.

Items to take

We decided to treat ourselves to new waterproof trousers-ensuring that they had zips/poppers down the side so they can be put on quickly without taking off our boots. We bought the Berghaus range from Go Outdoors

Wear boots, the only way to go. We wear Lowa boots, originally designed in Germany, and very popular with walkers there. Having worn out previous pairs, with an excess of 1,000 miles walked in them, we are now onto our third pairs. They are from Lowa direct. Lowa Boots UK | Walking, Hiking Boots & Shoes | Lowa Footwear

Take snacks, cereal bars etc, as on some days there are no refreshments en-route.

Take some cash, in a few shops there was no WIFI for debit cards.

We took gloves and winter hats.

Take sticks if necessary, especially in the mud.

A good first aid kit, as there are few pharmacies en-route.

As usual take sun tan lotion, sun hats, tick card, insect repellent etc. spare laces.

I usually take an umbrella-both for the rain and the sun.

Plan ahead-on many days there is no food to buy, we often carried two days supplies of food with us.

Places we ate along the way

https://www.bayhorsecowling.com/ pub in Cowling

https://www.victoriakirkbymalham.co.uk/ pub booked in advance in Kirkby Malham

List of Accommodation

http://www.squirrelwoodcampsite.co.uk/ accommodation in Cowling

https://www.yha.org.uk/hostel/yha-malham

https://www.thestationinnribblehead.com/ Stayed and ate here

https://www.herriotsinhawes.co.uk

https://www.frithlodgekeld.co.uk/ Stayed and ate here

https://www.teesdalehotel.co.uk/

Other useful websites https://www.sherpavan.com/baggage/newbagsrc.asp https://www.nationalrail.co.uk/ www.mapmywalk.com www.bookings.com https//www.bbc.com/weather

Books we used

Walking The Pennine Way Cicerone Press by Paddy Dillon

Pennine Way South A-Z for Walkers

Pennine Way North A-Z for Walkers Both books I can't recommend highly enough - with relevant extracts of Ordnance Survey maps, enabling us to occasionally change our route.

In the words of the most famous hiker – Alfred Wainwright, in relation to the Coast to Coast Walk.

“I want to encourage in others the ambition to devise with the aid of maps their own cross-country marathons and not be merely followers of other people's routes: there is no end to the possibilities or originality and initiative.”

Pennine Way Information

As always we advise wearing walking boots - we wear Lowa. The weather in this area can be changeable so take wet weather clothes, hats, sun hats, map, compass and first aid kit etc. Take a phone charger, especially if using on-line resources. Also take food and drink, as none were available on this trip.

We felt that this was quite a difficult day, even with great weather and fantastic views, taking us 8 hours with only short stops. At one time without the recently built stone paths, and modern navigational devices, walkers would have got very wet in the many bogs, and lost too. These days walking clothes are of a much superior quality. We also had the advantage of only carrying day packs, instead of large bags containing a tent that could have been necessary. We did wonder when the path was first created how many walkers gave up on day one.

Crowden has no facilities other than a youth hostel and campsite, which do provide food, and there are no lunch options en route either. So stock up in Edale – and perhaps for the next leg too, as Standedge is similarly bereft.

Look out for Curlews, short-eared owls, golden plover, mountain hares, and red grouse.